Thanks for confirming, it's an odd sort of material like a ceramic.
Drilling is not easy at that point so I will try to find a replacement here in the UK or Europe.
Andy
Search found 37 matches
- Mon Aug 08, 2022 4:13 pm
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Welding a rear carrier
- Replies: 2
- Views: 374
- Tue Jun 28, 2022 5:27 pm
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Welding a rear carrier
- Replies: 2
- Views: 374
Welding a rear carrier
On my Mono 1988 R100RS I have the kind of rear carrier specifically designed for a top box, it connects down to the pannier frames. It seems one time I over-tightened the top box because the carrier part is cracked all the way through. My question is to those of you that know about metallurgy, which...
- Tue Jun 28, 2022 5:21 pm
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Loctite product for rear drive to swingarm Mono R100RS with no gasket
- Replies: 3
- Views: 352
Re: Loctite product for rear drive to swingarm Mono R100RS with no gasket
I recently had to replace my driveshaft (97K miles and the UJ had become notchy). On reassemlby I used Hylomar Blue sparingly and so far not a trace of oil.
- Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:26 pm
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Monolever fork nut stuck
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3501
Re: Monolever fork nut stuck
High five! The noise it made when if first moved was a kind of metalic groan...
I've just bought a San Jose replacement yolk (triple-clamp thingie) to fit there in the next few weeks.
I've just bought a San Jose replacement yolk (triple-clamp thingie) to fit there in the next few weeks.
- Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:41 am
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Monolever fork nut stuck
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3501
Re: Monolever fork nut stuck
It's off.
I got a breaker bar long enough to brace against the frame, and a dirty great long spanner.
When it moved, it was a nice feeling.
I got a breaker bar long enough to brace against the frame, and a dirty great long spanner.
When it moved, it was a nice feeling.
- Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:01 pm
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Monolever fork nut stuck
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3501
Re: Monolever fork nut stuck
Well the nut moved with some heat... The single-shock bikes have a different fork. The big top nut secures onto a gold inner thread, which is a part that pushes up through the tube. This is all a long way of saying that the inner thread is spinning when I try to remove it. Clearly I am supposed to u...
- Fri Dec 29, 2017 6:50 am
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Monolever fork nut stuck
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3501
Re: Monolever fork nut stuck
Thanks guys.
I'll try heat and a soft mallet.
Does it matter where the heat is applied to? Eg, Am I heating the nut, or tube, or both?
I'll try heat and a soft mallet.
Does it matter where the heat is applied to? Eg, Am I heating the nut, or tube, or both?
- Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:34 am
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Monolever fork nut stuck
- Replies: 14
- Views: 3501
Monolever fork nut stuck
Hi all So, I have fork alignment issues. Not massive, but they are there all the same. The big nut that secures the top of the fork tube to the flimsy yoke is seized on one side. At least, I could not get it to budge. I'm loathed to take a dremmel to it and cut it off, but I am going to replace the ...
- Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:29 am
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: Can't get neutral when hot
- Replies: 26
- Views: 6208
Re: Can't get neutral when hot
Morning all The Christmas break saw me with a day spent in the garage (max temp all day in there 2 deg C :-( ). I've adjusted the clutch both using the cable at the bars and locknut at the gearbox. To be honest, I don't think it was wrong but you never know. Right now it's adjusted correctly so all ...
- Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:04 am
- Forum: Post 1970 Airheads
- Topic: LED headlight replacement for H4
- Replies: 29
- Views: 8568
Re: LED headlight replacement for H4
@Zombie Master:
That looks great but was it a straight replacement or was additional work involved? Looking at the pictures of the vendor website it's hard to tell.
That looks great but was it a straight replacement or was additional work involved? Looking at the pictures of the vendor website it's hard to tell.