Boxerworks.com

The problem was that the connection between the pin(s) (that plug into the big square connector) developed a bad connection between the pin's base and the flexible circuit board. While you're into your cluster you might take a hard look at the pin to etch connection and wiggle the pin if you can. K...

I think sometimes there are alignment issues with the copper tab and the steel tab of the bulb socket. From memory, the contact point between copper tab and bulb tab is close to where the copper tab folds over. I wouldn't use conductive grease as it is treating the symptom and not the cause, and co...

Anyone ever used this "silver conductive grease"? Doing a cleanup on my instrument pod, and trying to overcome some corrosion issues on the indicator bulb circuit board tabs (where the black plastic bulb holder sockets plug in). I cleaned up all of the visible corrosion, but am still havin...

Duane Ausherman wrote:I am so tired of this old thread.

Well if you must know, I only brought it up to see if Diane might make an appearance....

I've read that these bolts should not be re-used, so I ordered new ones for the reassembly. I've also read that blue loctite should be used on reassembly, but that the threads on both the bolts and flanges must be clean and dry and free of oil. This seems unlikely to achieve as the rubber boot and t...

I usually don't get anal about things like this....but One of the guys I watch on YouTube was very forcefully saying not to use nickel based anti-seize paste on the exhaust threads of airheads, he recommends ONLY copper based paste. I clean the threads and lube with paste every year ( did it yester...

justoneoftheguys wrote:

driggs wrote:What the!?....when did the venerable RT bcome the red-headed stepchild of the airhead family?!

I take exception to that....I happily ride one!

Don't worry driggs, you are safe as long as the R65 exists.

Well, there is that I suppose...

EME sells the Valeo knock off for around $120-, and upgraded battery cables for around $20-. So you can change the relay as well and it will still cost less than a third of the fancy alternative - I did over 3 years/110,000 km back and everything is still working the way it did when it was fitted, ...

Bike is an '88 RT with around 105K on the clock, new to me last summer. The starter was a little lazy from the beginning, and testing the battery revealed it had a dead cell so I replaced it. But even with the brand new battery, the starter still wouldn't spin the motor all that vigorously so I plan...

R100SRS wrote:My bike (1977 R100RS) has a clear oil level inspection pug below the filler plug on the final drive.

Anybody know the part number for this? Can't see it on the parts fiche.

Final drive with a sight-glass? Can you post a pic?