UTT Master Cylinder pressure light

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Zombie Master
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Re: UTT Master Cylinder pressure light

Post by Zombie Master »

Very good!
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Airbear
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Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.

Re: UTT Master Cylinder pressure light

Post by Airbear »

dirtsurfer wrote: Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:39 pm Hi all
Thanks for all the replies and related discussion. Last night I fitted the handlebar M/C kit from Motobins. The M/C itself is Magura and demands the use DOT 4 brake fluid on the reservoir cap so that's what I put in . I'm pretty happy with the result so far; I'm going to check all the connections again tonight to be sure there are no leaks; but the front brake now has a better feel and more convincing stopping power .


And the (new) brake light switch works too!
Well done, mate.

It's worth tying the brake lever back towards the handlebar grip overnight to help any micro-bubbles rise to the top. Getting the ATE slaves tuned in can be fun with twin disks. Mine is single disk, which can be enough trouble. I've found it best to have an extra hand (er, belonging to somebody else) up at the brake lever as I tweak the eccentric adjuster at the slave. With the brake lever gently squeezed to the point where the pads are just beginning to bite use a big screwdriver to twist the eccentric bolt back and forth to get the range of movement then set it to the middle of that range. Once both sides are adjusted some spirited riding and equally spirited braking will get everything settled. You should end up with much improved braking with the bar mounted MC.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Zombie Master
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: UTT Master Cylinder pressure light

Post by Zombie Master »

As far as setting the ATE calipers for disc alignment. I always used a felt marker to draw a thick line across the disc. I would then spin the wheel and see what part of the line would be removed. Repeat the procedure until the line is uniformly remove by the brake pads. Been a long time since I've done this, but it worked well as I remember.
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