For what it is worth, here is a video of the action, both from top & bottom.
Not much to see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tH1NVdZdkbc
Measuring a frame for straightness
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Is it only rubbing when pulled all the way forward?
If so, your lever is too far forward.
Turn the handlebar cable adjuster IN to give it lots of slack and take out said slack by screwing in the adjuster on the back of the actuating arm. There is a lock nut holding the adjuster in place.
I can't see the actual pivot on your vid, but the angle looks like it will be better if you move the arm back.
In a perfect world the arm should be perpendicular to the pushrod (parallel to the case) at mid hand lever travel.
That's where the clutch will have it's lightest feel, and the moving components of the linkage will be the least stressed.
Changing clutch parts will affect this adjustment, maybe that's why it is now rubbing.
Did you swap any parts in there? clutch, clutch pushrod and release bearing, flywheel, etc
When all is said and done, adjust the free-play at the hand lever to about 1mm.
The hand lever will tighten up as the clutch breaks in and/or wears out, so check that it still has free-play periodically.
For that, use only the cable adjuster at the handlebar.
There should be no further adjustments needed at the actuating arm once it is set up properly.
If so, your lever is too far forward.
Turn the handlebar cable adjuster IN to give it lots of slack and take out said slack by screwing in the adjuster on the back of the actuating arm. There is a lock nut holding the adjuster in place.
I can't see the actual pivot on your vid, but the angle looks like it will be better if you move the arm back.
In a perfect world the arm should be perpendicular to the pushrod (parallel to the case) at mid hand lever travel.
That's where the clutch will have it's lightest feel, and the moving components of the linkage will be the least stressed.
Changing clutch parts will affect this adjustment, maybe that's why it is now rubbing.
Did you swap any parts in there? clutch, clutch pushrod and release bearing, flywheel, etc
When all is said and done, adjust the free-play at the hand lever to about 1mm.
The hand lever will tighten up as the clutch breaks in and/or wears out, so check that it still has free-play periodically.
For that, use only the cable adjuster at the handlebar.
There should be no further adjustments needed at the actuating arm once it is set up properly.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Apology to Rob
Rob said:
My original post back in March:
You don't seem to have participated!
I re-read most of it today.
Boertjie nailed it about 10 posts down.
I thought you tried that and the lever still rubbed.
after that I had nothing to add to the frame discussion.
all the bases were covered.
I have a pitbull's obsessiveness when a problem is "unfixable', but rapidly lose interest once it's fixed.
My original post back in March:
You don't seem to have participated!
I re-read most of it today.
Boertjie nailed it about 10 posts down.
I thought you tried that and the lever still rubbed.
after that I had nothing to add to the frame discussion.
all the bases were covered.
I have a pitbull's obsessiveness when a problem is "unfixable', but rapidly lose interest once it's fixed.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
-
Deleted User 61
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Well, I guess I will play with the adjustments and see what happens.
Easier than building a new bike.
Easier than building a new bike.
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Remove the spring and slack off the cable adjuster while adjusting the arm.
The lock nut is 13mm, the adjuster is 10mm. it probably needs about 1/2 to 3/4 turns in.
Try your best to set it up so once everything is locked down, the arm is straight when the clutch lever is pulled in half way.
A bit further back is OK if that's what's absolutely needed so the arm does not rub.
The lock nut is 13mm, the adjuster is 10mm. it probably needs about 1/2 to 3/4 turns in.
Try your best to set it up so once everything is locked down, the arm is straight when the clutch lever is pulled in half way.
A bit further back is OK if that's what's absolutely needed so the arm does not rub.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
-
Deleted User 61
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Why remove the spring?
I still don't see how all this is going to move the end of the lever 1/2" away from the frame.
They better take away my moderator privileges before I delete this whole thread.
I still don't see how all this is going to move the end of the lever 1/2" away from the frame.
They better take away my moderator privileges before I delete this whole thread.
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Who the hell said it has to be 1/2" away from the frame?
That's BS.
Here's mine: clutch in about 1/8", clutch out 3/8" (measured by eye)
The distance could be more or less than that depending on the straightness of the arm and the play in the pivot.
As long as it doesn't rub, it's ok.
use a match pack as a feeler gauge if you need to.
Removing the spring makes it easier to gauge the actual position of the arm as you adjust it.
The spring is only there to prevent the hand lever from vibrating once you give the cable some free play.
That's BS.
Here's mine: clutch in about 1/8", clutch out 3/8" (measured by eye)
The distance could be more or less than that depending on the straightness of the arm and the play in the pivot.
As long as it doesn't rub, it's ok.
use a match pack as a feeler gauge if you need to.
Removing the spring makes it easier to gauge the actual position of the arm as you adjust it.
The spring is only there to prevent the hand lever from vibrating once you give the cable some free play.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
ROB! ROB! Stop kicking yourself!
Where are you?
Stop kicking yourself, all's well that ends well, I hope.
Stop kicking yourself, all's well that ends well, I hope.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
-
Deleted User 61
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
I am in central Indiana.
I posted a query on the local club's Yahoo Group, and all I got was to talk to a guy that is about two hours away. Not much help. I was asking for any leads to another twin-shock R65 in the area that I could examine.
But I have modified my request to the local club, now including all twin-shock airheads.
Everyone here seems to ride a post-airhead BMW.
I posted a query on the local club's Yahoo Group, and all I got was to talk to a guy that is about two hours away. Not much help. I was asking for any leads to another twin-shock R65 in the area that I could examine.
But I have modified my request to the local club, now including all twin-shock airheads.
Everyone here seems to ride a post-airhead BMW.
Re: Clutch arm clearance!
YO Rob. Just returned from the garage...got lots of different observations:
On the /5, the clearance is probably 6-8 mm.
On the R100RS, I doubt I could slide a matchbook cover between the arm and the frame, but it does clear...say a frog-hair!
On the R100s, it is a couple of mm. (eyeball)
I''d say whatever it takes to get moving clearance is what you should shoot for. Maybe the spacers at the rear could be interchanged...maybe one is fatter than the other. wouldn't take much to allow a frog-hair of clearance.
On the /5, the clearance is probably 6-8 mm.
On the R100RS, I doubt I could slide a matchbook cover between the arm and the frame, but it does clear...say a frog-hair!
On the R100s, it is a couple of mm. (eyeball)
I''d say whatever it takes to get moving clearance is what you should shoot for. Maybe the spacers at the rear could be interchanged...maybe one is fatter than the other. wouldn't take much to allow a frog-hair of clearance.
Clemson, SC
R100s, R75/5
R100s, R75/5