Boxerworks.com

Congrats on the toaster, and welcome to the forum!
This should get you started for a manual...
http://www.pbase.com/dwerbil/slash_5

Welcome aboard, Mottseng. Well done getting yourself a good Toaster. Pics would be nice - I'm a SlashFive Tragic.

Many thanks for the info.

Mottseng wrote: ↑Wed May 17, 2017 3:05 pm Many thanks for the info.

Well, I didn't contribute any any info on the subject. But what the hell. You're welcome.

And Welcome to Boxerworks.

Ken

Have you checked

http://5united.org ?

Esp. unter* the link "articles" there is some technical info.


*unintended typo I don't want to correct . . .

Thanks all for the warm welcome. I finally had the opportunity to take it for a few mile test drive. During this the bike stalled several times and it is sputtering and won't idle at a stop. I suspect the carbs need to be rebuilt and set up. Also, after riding it for a few miles my right wrist is killing me due to the very stiff throttle. I suppose all this is normal stuff when purchasing a vintage bike.

It's go nothing to do with being vintage...just neglect.

Mottseng wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2017 10:43 am Thanks all for the warm welcome. I finally had the opportunity to take it for a few mile test drive. During this the bike stalled several times and it is sputtering and won't idle at a stop. I suspect the carbs need to be rebuilt and set up. Also, after riding it for a few miles my right wrist is killing me due to the very stiff throttle. I suppose all this is normal stuff when purchasing a vintage bike.

I wouldn't necessarily think that the carbs need to be 'rebuilt' as such. But 'cleaned' and 'set up' would be a good idea. I would start by spraying carb cleaner through the various orifices (drillings) in the carb. Also I would ensure that the floats and float levels are OK. Heavy floats (meaning gas soaked and brown) need to be replaced, despite the expense. Also you will want to check the diaphragms at the top of the carb and make sure they are without holes or tears.

A stiff throttle is also to be expected after a long layup. As a minimum a good cleaning (carb cleaner shot into the ends of the cable) and lubrication would be called for.

You will enjoy your airhead.

Ken

A bad idle can be related to tight valves. Adjusting them is easy and free and lets you find all the other little things. If the problem comes back in 1,000 miles or so it can be the onset of your first expensive repair, new valve seats.

The throttle mechanism uses the medieval torture rack principle. There is timeless beauty in that but if poorly maintained it all goes bad. In my ignorance I replaced the throttle tube and its mating cog and chain but not the perch. The wear in the perch caused the new gears to mesh badly with resulting damage and lumpiness in operation. New parts are still available - one day I'll throw more money in that direction but in the meantime I find using the friction screw (cruise control to some) reduces the effort required on a long ride.