Boxerworks.com

jagarra wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2017 12:23 pm Here is one that looks like there isn't a whole lot of area needed to install behind the bulb like some. Would probably fit inside a /5 or 6 housing fairly well. Haven't tried one yet.

http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/

I have one of these in my '81. No issues with fitting. They are very bright but the light pattern is not as good as a halogen in that the halogen fills the area directly in front of the bike better than the Native4. The Native4 has two distinct cut off lines, giving a wide band of light. The Native4 only lights the top half of the reflector which looks a little odd. The reason for this is that it only has emitters on the top of the bulb where some other leds have emitters top and bottom of the bulb.

You will not be happy with the Native-H4 and here's why... The lighting elements are mounted on a flat printed circuit board. Obviously, light cannot get to the other side of the opaque circuit board when the elements are mounted this way. Therefore, only half of your reflector will be illuminated. Not only might this limit your night time vision, a half-lit reflector makes you less visible to on-coming drivers during the day. One can only hope that elements on BOTH sides of the circuit board are illuminated on High beam, but the only way to know that is to buy it.

The much better LED design to look for has the lighting elements located all around a cylindrical or triangular post. This results in a full 360°, all-around illumination of the reflector, and thus a better light pattern for motorcycles. Of course, this construction method is slightly more expensive, but well worth the extra $4-$6.

For a full understanding of what I'm saying compare the basic construction of the Native-H4 to the Cyron H4...

FLAT: http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/

TRIANGULAR: https://cyronmotor.com/p-209-headlight- ... abh4k.aspx

pxc433 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:04 am @Zombie Master:

That looks great but was it a straight replacement or was additional work involved? Looking at the pictures of the vendor website it's hard to tell.

It was a straight replacement.

Who remembers this one?



http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/reallybigalt.htm

Interesting, too!



But, yeah, you might want to consider a turbo to help the engine...

Greg Hutchinson (I think that's the last name) of ABC fame has designed an 800W alternator for installation on Airheads. The approach for his modification is for a person who might be interested in venturing all over the world with an electrical system that can be repaired anywhere in the world.

Kurt in S.A.

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2017 2:41 am

ME 109 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:52 am I think you need a 450 or 600 watt EME alternator.
Then you could also run a heated seat, kick ass halogen driving lights, and a coffee machine.
When my stator shits itself, that's where I'm going.

Wouldn't a 600 W alt drag that airhead's power output down?

Only by about a horsepower. The conversion formula is 746 watts per horsepower. There will be some real world heat losses, so call it one horsepower. If I understand your question right.

Ken in Oklahoma, I mean Boise

Ken in Oklahoma wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 12:06 am

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2017 2:41 am

ME 109 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:52 am I think you need a 450 or 600 watt EME alternator.
Then you could also run a heated seat, kick ass halogen driving lights, and a coffee machine.
When my stator shits itself, that's where I'm going.

Wouldn't a 600 W alt drag that airhead's power output down?

Only by about a horsepower. The conversion formula is 746 watts per horsepower. There will be some real world heat losses, so call it one horsepower. If I understand your question right.

Ken in Oklahoma, I mean Boise

That answers it thanx.

1 HP doesn't seem much but it's 10% of the engines output when cruising at 55 mph.

barryh wrote: ↑Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:00 pm 1 HP doesn't seem much but it's 10% of the engines output when cruising at 55 mph.

That sounds significant.

My BSA manages fine with a 110 watt alternator and stock halogen globes. But no heated bidet in the rear seat , or whatever it is some guys need 600 watts for.
Headlamp performance with stock system depends on having full volts at the light, the quality if the reflector and globe, and how well the globe is positioned in the reflector.
With a adjustable globe holder my Fox hunting spotlight can be dialed so the same globe performs around twice as well as it does in my car.
Accurate positioning is essential, and most cheap globes , halogen and LED, fail dismally here, particularly single sided LED's.
I think quality manufactures like Phillips now make LED globes which should be better than no name junk, particularly if you spend a little time experimenting with a little packing / bending to see if you can make it suit the reflector better.