Handelbars.

Discuss all things 1970 & later Airheads right here.
User avatar
SteveD
Posts: 4839
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:29 am
Location: Melbourne, Oz.

Re: Handelbars.

Post by SteveD »

Similar.

Image
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
User avatar
SteveD
Posts: 4839
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:29 am
Location: Melbourne, Oz.

Re: Handelbars.

Post by SteveD »

Then there's this... :shock:

Image
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
User avatar
Zombie Master
Posts: 8813
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Zombie Master »

You really need some bullet holes.
Any and all disclaimers may apply
User avatar
Steve in Golden
Posts: 3088
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:30 pm
Location: Golden, CO USA

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Steve in Golden »

And, the valve covers are on the wrong sides. :?
SteveD wrote: Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:12 pm Then there's this... :shock:

Image
User avatar
Gibson
Posts: 219
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:45 am

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Gibson »

I've had good luck using Renthal aluminum bars on my BMW's. You can easily cut them with a pipe cutter to shorten them. You do need to file off the knurled portion on the clutch side(quick work with a file).
Wobbly
Posts: 300
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly »

Those on the gray RS look like the K-bike bars.

I use bars from early 80's Hondas. These have the identical shape as the K-bike bars, but have the added feature of being 3-piece adjustable bars, so I can dial them right in to the angle my wrists need. To use them I have to subtract ~22mm from the central section, but that allows them to turn inside the RS fairing. And they end up coming back about 1" further than the K-bike bars.

Some photos...

Before...
Image

During...
Image

Image

After welding, I use a simple tubing cutter to trim the outer ends up to fit the fairing.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
Beemerboff
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 12:11 am

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Beemerboff »

Possibly not at lot of stress in that central position, but as a general rule you dont want to be filing, drilling or welding aluminum bars.
And if you dont understand why, the internet is your friend, find out!
Wobbly
Posts: 300
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly »

The Honda bars are steel. After cutting, I press a specially turned solid chunk of steel bar at least 1.5" into each of the 2 halves. That's what's keeping the bar together and aligned in the pre-welded condition you see in the last 2 photos. Then I have the weld penetrate all 3 parts. Believe me when I say it's VERY sturdy part when completed.

;)
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
User avatar
Gibson
Posts: 219
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:45 am

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Gibson »

It is perfectly fine to cut and drill aluminum bars. Welding will destroy the heat treating and I would not do it. The steel adjustable bar is very cool and a great idea! :)
Wobbly
Posts: 300
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly »

Yeah, I thought so. To get the same thing from HeliBars would be well over $500. I typically get the Honda bars off Ebay for under $25 and add about 2 hours of my time to customize them. Another great thing is that they are already 22mm and not 7/8 inch, so the controls don't need to be modified at all.

I put a set on a pal's R75/6 and have a set on both of my RS's. The result is a rise of about 3-3/4 inches, which is enough to allow me to sit almost upright. I just love them.

Image

Image
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
Post Reply