Handelbars.

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SteveD
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:29 am
Location: Melbourne, Oz.

Re: Handelbars.

Post by SteveD » Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:07 pm

Similar.

Image
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/
2006 K1200R.

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SteveD
Posts: 4173
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:29 am
Location: Melbourne, Oz.

Re: Handelbars.

Post by SteveD » Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:12 pm

Then there's this... :shock:

Image
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/
2006 K1200R.

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Zombie Master
Posts: 8194
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Zombie Master » Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:16 am

You really need some bullet holes.
Any and all disclaimers may apply

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Steve in Golden
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:30 pm
Location: Golden, CO USA

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Steve in Golden » Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:00 pm

And, the valve covers are on the wrong sides. :?
SteveD wrote:
Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:12 pm
Then there's this... :shock:

Image

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Gibson
Posts: 156
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:45 am

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Gibson » Tue Apr 17, 2018 1:44 pm

I've had good luck using Renthal aluminum bars on my BMW's. You can easily cut them with a pipe cutter to shorten them. You do need to file off the knurled portion on the clutch side(quick work with a file).

Wobbly
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly » Tue May 01, 2018 10:58 pm

Those on the gray RS look like the K-bike bars.

I use bars from early 80's Hondas. These have the identical shape as the K-bike bars, but have the added feature of being 3-piece adjustable bars, so I can dial them right in to the angle my wrists need. To use them I have to subtract ~22mm from the central section, but that allows them to turn inside the RS fairing. And they end up coming back about 1" further than the K-bike bars.

Some photos...

Before...
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During...
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Image

After welding, I use a simple tubing cutter to trim the outer ends up to fit the fairing.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !

Beemerboff
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Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 12:11 am

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Beemerboff » Wed May 09, 2018 12:33 am

Possibly not at lot of stress in that central position, but as a general rule you dont want to be filing, drilling or welding aluminum bars.
And if you dont understand why, the internet is your friend, find out!

Wobbly
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly » Thu May 10, 2018 9:40 pm

The Honda bars are steel. After cutting, I press a specially turned solid chunk of steel bar at least 1.5" into each of the 2 halves. That's what's keeping the bar together and aligned in the pre-welded condition you see in the last 2 photos. Then I have the weld penetrate all 3 parts. Believe me when I say it's VERY sturdy part when completed.

;)
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !

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Gibson
Posts: 156
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Re: Handelbars.

Post by Gibson » Fri May 11, 2018 8:31 am

It is perfectly fine to cut and drill aluminum bars. Welding will destroy the heat treating and I would not do it. The steel adjustable bar is very cool and a great idea! :)

Wobbly
Posts: 247
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: Handelbars.

Post by Wobbly » Fri May 11, 2018 4:25 pm

Yeah, I thought so. To get the same thing from HeliBars would be well over $500. I typically get the Honda bars off Ebay for under $25 and add about 2 hours of my time to customize them. Another great thing is that they are already 22mm and not 7/8 inch, so the controls don't need to be modified at all.

I put a set on a pal's R75/6 and have a set on both of my RS's. The result is a rise of about 3-3/4 inches, which is enough to allow me to sit almost upright. I just love them.

Image

Image
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !

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