Adjustable Clutch & Front Brake Levers

[jackonz]

Hi, anyone know where I can get adjustable front brake and clutch levers to fit the standard BMW kit, I have a 1978 R80/7 and it has the Hydraulic Master Cylinder under the fuel tank.
I just find that I cannot get used to the long reach to them compared to what I have on my F800GS

[Rob Frankham]

If it becomes a real problem, there is a certain amount of 'leeway' to be had with the existing levers by slackening the cables and packing the levers so they sit closer to the bars. You need to be sure, of course, that you still have sufficient travel on the levers that you can still disengage the clutch and apply full braking force so the amount you can gain this way is limited but the same restrictions would apply to aftermarket levers. I am not aware of any adjustable aftermarket levers that will fit the BMW handlebar mounts...

Rob

[Airbear]

Phil, there are work-around solutions. The UTMC is a horrible thing - squeezing the brake lever feels like trying to crush a lump of wood with little result. A bar mounted 13mm MC from a later model or aftermarket makes a huge difference to braking force and the engagement is closer to the grip.

The clutches on the pre-81 bikes are pretty brutal too. A lot of people are using a pulley setup to halve the effort and increase the engagement zone. Here's mine, made in an afternoon after seeing Rob Frankham's version posted on the BM Bikes forum:

NEWCLUTCH S.jpg (179.94 KiB) Viewed 871 times

I can squeeze the clutch lever between thumb and forefinger (I had already installed the lighter clutch diaphragm spring). Makes me grin every time I use it. If you don't have the means or inclination to make one there's a bloke over on ADVrider selling them for US$80 (ouch).

[Kurt in S.A.]

Charlie -

jackonz was concerned about the reach to the lever. The EZClutch system you show reduces the forces, but doesn't address the reach issue.

Seems like I had heard one might be able to bend the levers. I realize they're not made out of that kind of metal, but some judicious heat and bending might provide some relief. But be ready to buy replacements!!

Kurt

[Airbear]

Yes Kurt, Phil’s request was pretty clear but he is an old fart like me and probably has hands that have been over used and abused like mine, so I thought it worthwhile to mention my solution. Lessening the effort required to pull in those levers and shifting the engagement points so they are closer to the bars has made riding a far more pleasant experience for me. Safer too, since I can actually stop forward motion without too much praying.

FWIW, I also threw dollars at a whole new throttle perch, new cables and lighter carb springs. The old bike feels younger and more lively, so more grins for me.

[jackonz]

Yes Kurt, Phil’s request was pretty clear but he is an old fart like me and probably has hands that have been over used and abused like mine, so I thought it worthwhile to mention my solution. Lessening the effort required to pull in those levers and shifting the engagement points so they are closer to the bars has made riding a far more pleasant experience for me. Safer too, since I can actually stop forward motion without too much praying.

FWIW, I also threw dollars at a whole new throttle perch, new cables and lighter carb springs. The old bike feels younger and more lively, so more grins for me.

Hi, well yes am old but part of a small group of riders here in Nelson NZ we are the BOF's (Boring old farts), as for the clutch and brake levers I cannot believe no one has made an alternative to the OEM design.

[jackonz]

Phil, there are work-around solutions. The UTMC is a horrible thing - squeezing the brake lever feels like trying to crush a lump of wood with little result. A bar mounted 13mm MC from a later model or aftermarket makes a huge difference to braking force and the engagement is closer to the grip.

The clutches on the pre-81 bikes are pretty brutal too. A lot of people are using a pulley setup to halve the effort and increase the engagement zone. Here's mine, made in an afternoon after seeing Rob Frankham's version posted on the BM Bikes forum:


NEWCLUTCH S.jpg

I can squeeze the clutch lever between thumb and forefinger (I had already installed the lighter clutch diaphragm spring). Makes me grin every time I use it. If you don't have the means or inclination to make one there's a bloke over on ADVrider selling them for US$80 (ouch).

Thanks for the info, I still have the strength to operate both the front brake and clutch its just the reach to them, besides the clutch is far easier than what I had with my old Norton Commando.

As for the front Master cylinder I searched high and low for a used one as the price for new is horrendous given the low value of the NZ$, so I did a full rebuild on the original and it seems to work as intended but adjusting the cable to make it easier to reach means the clearance setting at the Master Cylinder is out of whack, so I will keep searching.

[Airbear]

Phil
Yes, ok, I get it. I am just so enthusiastic about the light and precise controls on my old dear (it's taken 20 years to get there) that I want to shout about it from the virtual rooftops.

Re the UTMC, I wonder if anyone has had one sleeved down to 13mm. Can't be too hard, I imagine.

You seem to be more like an Interesting Old Fart to me. I hope that revelation won't affect your standing in the BOF community.

Best of luck finding a solution.

[jackonz]

Phil
Yes, ok, I get it. I am just so enthusiastic about the light and precise controls on my old dear (it's taken 20 years to get there) that I want to shout about it from the virtual rooftops.

Re the UTMC, I wonder if anyone has had one sleeved down to 13mm. Can't be too hard, I imagine.

You seem to be more like an Interesting Old Fart to me. I hope that revelation won't affect your standing in the BOF community.

Best of luck finding a solution.

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for your input, can't see the need to sleeve down my UTMC as its is not leaking and works fine with the twin front disks on the bike, I was lucky with this as the bike was imported from the UK and are a factory fitment.

Once the warm weather gets here I will get back in the man cave and repair the rear main seal oil leak and get it back on the road, it's been a cold winter here and cannot wait for warmer weather.

Ride Safe

[Rob Frankham]

twin front disks on the bike, I was lucky with this as the bike was imported from the UK and are a factory fitment.

It doesn't really matter but... The R80/7 wasn't fitted as standard with twin front disks in Europe. You could have them fitted on the production line as a special order, some were converted by dealers/importers prior to sale and many owners 'upgraded' using new or second hand parts but they weren't a stock item. In fact BMW actually offered an upgrade kit which included the master cylinder.

The only way I can see that this might matter is in the diameter of the master cylinder. If it was converted ex the production line and without using the upgrade kit, it is possible that the original 14mm master cylinder might have been retained. If, however, you're happy with the brakes as they stand, even that isn't a real cause for worry.

Rob