I could write a long piece on exactly why it's crap but I'll spare you. Get rid of the thing. Not to make you feel bad, but it's a headache nobody needs. Dyna has been around a long time, and has been selling crap a long time and people keep buying. Nothing new about that. how did PT Barnum put it? My original beef with them was that when the module went bad (I had 2) it went intermittent. Real bitch to diagnose. When I asked them for help they told me it was old and out of warranty and piss off kid (still have the letters). Bought the competitors stuff and didn't look back. It failed too, everything will. But it got dead dead and I was back on the road in minutes. If the set screws in that magnet mark up your advance cam where the points ride, you won't be going back to points, even in an emergency. The cam surface is trashed.Rohls wrote:Roger that. I'm on the path to get it going on the points first, then switch over o the Dyna if the trash man hasn't taken them by then...
What about the secondary resistance to the high tension (spark plug) lead? I'm getting ~6.3kOhms @ about 55 degrees ambient temp...? Is this really important to be higher (like 7 or 10 kOhms) per the manual?
Thanks again for the help! Much appreciated.
The Dyna booster used with stock points can be a stronger option. The points themselves last an extremely long time. That bullshit with the corroding circuit board goes away. Boyer fixed that one back when they identified the problem, Dyna says to drill a hole in your case. (They don't know airheads). The rubbing block on the points still wears requiring a periodic readjustmentand regular lubrication. Big deal, you use a Dwell gauge and it takes about a minute. Switching from booster to points in event of failure takes a minute as well. Unplug this wire and plug in that one. I got one around, unknown condition, yours for the shipping. Personally after looking through their literature and site, I wouldn't want anything to do with Dynatek, they're bullshit artists--- despite the advantages of the booster.
Your meter leads should be about .2 ohms. Check. Then stop worrying about the resistances. Get it making sparks. Then look at the sparks. Blue white and you're good. Limp yellow and you have a problem. The observed condition of the spark is everything. The measurements are only diagnostics you use in event of problems, and then there is a fair amount to do. Right now, your problems lie elsewhere.
The condenser is critical. It's minor function is to suppress arcing across the points, prolonging life. It's major function is to create a resonant circuit with the coils to make the sparks. It's a capacitor and it discharges through the coils---many times during the actual spark event.. The easy way to deal with it is to always have a new one on hand. If in doubt, plug in the new one. They are cheap.
Expect the usual old bike stuff; damaged wires and bad connections. Fix as you go. Get sparks first, then get them happening at the right time. The rest will settle out.
Fatter sparks are always nice but there is point of diminishing returns. The airhead is a low revving low performance motor. A huge ignition system is of limited usefulness. The spark at the plugs is completely a function of the coils. More powerful coils = more powerful sparks...no matter how much hype Dynatek (and others) want to shovel. But more powerful coils draw more current than points can handle, thus you go to electronic switching (essentially a non-contact switch and a relay ) rather than mechanical switching (points). Thing is, your stock coils aren't powerful enough to demand an electronic system. Even if you went to Bosch blue coils, which are plenty on an airhead, the points will handle them fine. Dual plugging and you are running higher draw coils and you want electronics. Some kind of super hot coil on a single plug setup, ditto. BMW went to hotter ignition systems to light up the leaner mixes and more advanced timing specs demanded by the emissions systems. Rip off the emissions stuff and re-tune as much as you can and the same ol' same ol' works dandy. Keeping the system clean and in good shape, keeping the plugs fresh and using the correct ones---it's a solid, reliable system. Bit better cold starting with a hotter spark and more lattitude for the mix getting off. That's it.
Having spent a whole lot of years setting points I'm glad to be rid of them and I liked my electronic systems (including the stock one I have now). But I never had to deal with the garbage you are facing with the Dyna III. Typically new products are quite good. Over time they degrade as the mfg. tries to make them not better, but more profitable. Dyna has pushed their manufacturing off onto you, and done it badly. So they hand you hassles that shouldn't exist because they don't want to spend the money to make it right--or they aren't bright enough, which is likely. Then they cook up bullshit and hype to make the shortcomings look like some kind of benefit. Marketing 101. If it sucks, call it a feature.
There is an error in Duanes wiring diagram. Lets see if he can spot it.
