PushRod Seal Replacement Cost

[SteveD]

Didn't we once have a Seth posting here? There's a Seth on the current members list.

[teo]

Before you do any disassembling check that the seal is not split. The pushrod tube has a stop ring for the push rod tube seal. That stop ring puts pressure against the seal and presses it into the crankcase cavity. Try driving the stop ring on the pushrod tube tighter against the seal.

You can use a long screwdriver and hammer to gently tap the ring down or make a pushrod tube tool out of a 12"-16" x 1" conduit or 22mm-ish pipe. Grind the end of the pipe that will contact the ring with a 67 degree angle. Cut the top, longitudinal surface of the tube back about 4 inches from the extreme end of the angle so the angled driver end will snug up along the bottom of the fins and seat properly on the ring. Pop it a couple of times with a hammer and it should compress the seal.

The /5s and early /6s had a ring that was not welded. The later bikes had tubes a little wider in diameter and the rings were welded to the tube. For the latter welded ring, ensure the engine is warm when you pop the ring tight onto the seal.

It will amaze you how dry the engine becomes. Hope this solves your problem It cleared mine up.

Teo

[Deleted User 287]

The /5s and early /6s had a ring that was not welded. The later bikes had tubes a little wider in diameter and the rings were welded to the tube. For the latter welded ring, ensure the engine is warm when you pop the ring tight onto the seal.

Which brings up the age-old question: "I wonder what year & model vespajg is talking about?".

(should always be in the original post, whether we happen to see it or not. [hi Randy!])

[RickR90s]

you know my brother in law just got a R75/5. Left front pushrod seal leaking pretty badly. Since everything else on the bike is immaculate (and he doesn't want to rip into the motor right now), we just did the old trick of pushing the pushrod collar tighter against the seal. I know there's an official tool for this but I just used a large dull chisel and gently tapped on the collar. What I thought was a waste of time, resulted in a totally leak proof seal.

Granted, his seals aren't dry rotted or anything so maybe they'll last awhile. So far, another 300 miles on the bike and not a weep or leak.

check out CycleWorks for the precise tool. it may buy you some time until a winter teardown.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=15

RickR90s

[Ken in Oklahoma]

you know my brother in law just got a R75/5. Left front pushrod seal leaking pretty badly. Since everything else on the bike is immaculate (and he doesn't want to rip into the motor right now), we just did the old trick of pushing the pushrod collar tighter against the seal. I know there's an official tool for this but I just used a large dull chisel and gently tapped on the collar. What I thought was a waste of time, resulted in a totally leak proof seal.

Granted, his seals aren't dry rotted or anything so maybe they'll last awhile. So far, another 300 miles on the bike and not a weep or leak.

. . .

I know that many people frown at bumping the push rod tube ring harder against the seal. But I regard it as a viable effort. Once you fabricate the tool there's no additional "cost". If it works then you don't have to pull the cylinders until some "heavier" activity such as re-ringing or valve work comes along. And if it doesn't work, you've only lost a little time (not that time is inconsequential).

Ken

[RickR90s]

good point Ken. I was very skeptical as I've done about 10 or so pushrod seal jobs and always felt the cylinders had to be pulled. I thought, what the hell. I'll give it a try with my brother in law's bike, and what was an oil drip every minute (and a huge AMF-Harley type mess on the cardboard needed to keep the floor presentable) was instantly resolved.

I'm a believer

RickR90s

[teo]

The /6 and /5 manuals recommended using the pushrod seal tool to seat them. BMW had a speacial tool for that too. It was/is an accepted practice as long as the seals aren't split or dry-rotted.

I added pictures of the tool on my edited post above.

Teo

[Indian]

Mine has cracked but no leaks. I have the new seals and will change them next weekend.

[hools100RS]

Indian, my pushrod seals were also cracked, but not leaking. A friend suggested that the stainless pushrod tubes that had been installed before I bought the bike, weren't tapped into the head far enough and subsequently put more pressure on the seals when eveything is tightened down, splitting them. Rather than heat and knock in the tubes a smidgen (big risk of damage/disaster!!!), I shaved 1mm off the end of the seal that contacts the tube collar and it's oil tight with no cracks. Food for thought???? Hools.

[Deleted User 287]

I'm installing new seals on the latest R65 engine in my bike this weekend.

Just in time for Winter. It's already Fall in August here in Indiana.