Starter torque

[driggs]

Recently picked up a new-to-me 1988 R100RT, and noted a new battery was needed, as one cell tested bad. Symptom was that it did not spin the motor very vigorously at all...

I was able to pick up a new one (lead acid) at the local AutoZone store, (CB30L-B) 30 AH, 300CCA for $96. (so its the same specs as the mareg). Spins the motor much better, but I do notice that if I hit the starter just as the engine is hitting the compression stroke, there is a bit of a pause before the starter can crank it over. Is this normal for the 1000cc airhead motors? Coming from an oilhead, I expected the new battery to crank like gangbusters, sort of like a car does...does this indicate starter issues?

Also, this is the first bike I've had with an analog voltmeter...when riding I get 14.8 volts, but when I use turn signals I get a huge dip, like down to 10 volts or so, and the needle pulses between 10-11 volts as the signal blinks on and off. Thing is I don't notice much of a voltage drop at all when the brake light comes on.

Experiences?

[SteveD]

I think I'd clean a few connections ...battery earth, starter relay, starter solenoid.

The vm is probably getting very passed it's ubd, shown via the fluctuations. They should be slow to rise and fall with ignition on & off. 14.8 may suggest something amiss at the regulator too. Check it's connections and test again, measuring the volts directly at the battery though.

When you learn the vm, you'll realise it's useful to eyeball occasionally to ensure that it's working consistently. It's an unexplained drop in volts whilst riding that really matters and needs investigation.