New 1976 R75/6 owner, LOTS of questions

[Seth]

no one else admits to being from Quebec

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&m ... 13766f9b08

[ME 109]

Whoa! What's with the GSPD RIP??

Claude posted here several months ago saying he wasn't actually dead.
More info please Melville

[melville]

Whoa! What's with the GSPD RIP??

Claude posted here several months ago saying he wasn't actually dead.
More info please Melville

That woman has made him dead to us!

[moosehead]

Welcome Luc...real nice /6!

That's an aftermarket seat made by Corbin...highly praised by some and loathed by others. You'll be able to sell it, especially for the /6 models...$250 maybe if in good shape....enough to get an original maybe.

Motobins in the UK has nice reproductions at reasonable price even with the air freight costs from UK to Canada. Order a bunch of other small things from them e.g. filters, cables etc and make it worth your while.

I ordered one from them a few years ago for my /6...here's the link to Motobins. I'll see if I have the invoice around somewhere. Was a repro but well done. Also included the handrail

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R Series 2 valve Twin

Look under Seats and Seat Parts in the drop down list - you'll want a seat for /6 model (important to note that)

[Lifebeat]

Woah! Thanks for all this info everyone! I don't feel so alone now.

Now, I need to get ready to do a leak down pressure test to see what's going on with my 60 psi cylcinder... (other is at 125 psi) Is there always a tendency with these? Burnt exhaust valve? Is it too optimistic to imagine I can take the head off and just lap the valves...? (I know, I'm an idealist)

Another question. My steering is really stiff (damper in 0 position), I'm guessing rusty steering bearings... Do I need to get the bearing pullers from Northwoods, or a regular puller kit (including front end, ball joint, etc) will do?

Thanks!

Luc

[Lifebeat]

Oh!! Also forgot to ask. Is it normal that I don't have the lever to select two-up riding on the rear shocks? This would mean that they were replaced by something not original?

Luc

[Deleted User 62]

Luc, check out the prices of tools and parts at Cycle Works too: http://www.cycleworks.net/ Those shocks are not stock. Some aftermarket shocks require a special kind of hook wrench to adjust, does the ring around the base (below the spring) have steps in it? Any brand name stamped anywhere?

[ME 109]

If you need to pull the bearings, it can be done by welding them out if you are capable, or buy a specific puller by Ed Corn is it? or others. A puller for steering head bearings needs to be quite specific for the job.
Make sure the steering damper is not causing the problem. Maybe disconnect to make sure, unless you can see clearly that it is not the cause.

Maybe back off the steering head nuts to see if things loosen up. It may be possible to remove, clean and replace the bearings with good effect.

[Deleted User 62]

Ed Korn used to own Cycle Works, but sold the business a few years ago. Same tools, and some new ones too!

[Major Softie]

Now, I need to get ready to do a leak down pressure test to see what's going on with my 60 psi cylcinder... (other is at 125 psi) Is there always a tendency with these? Burnt exhaust valve? Is it too optimistic to imagine I can take the head off and just lap the valves...? (I know, I'm an idealist)

No, there's no specific "tendency" with these. The 80 - 84 models are known for having valve seat recession problems, but not your 76. Of course, your bike was designed for leaded gas and has been burning unleaded for decades now. Some of the 70's bikes burn unleaded without problem, some do not. Yours has lasted long enough that, if it has the original valves, I think it's a little late to blame it on unleaded. Though it's probably a long shot, it is not impossible that you might be able to lap it to fix it. First you need that leak-down so you can see if it's even the valves. If you need a valve job, they now have seats and valves designed for unleaded gas that work great (unlike the initial attempt in the early 80's).

Airheads (especially those 80 - 84 ones) ARE known for dropping valve heads when they have valve problems that are not taken care of, so be aware of that. As you can imagine, a valve head dropping off at speed does some extremely nasty things to the piston and combustion chamber.

Another question. My steering is really stiff (damper in 0 position), I'm guessing rusty steering bearings... Do I need to get the bearing pullers from Northwoods, or a regular puller kit (including front end, ball joint, etc) will do?
Luc

That can sometimes just be dried grease, or overtightened bearings, so there's a chance that your bearings aren't even damaged, although it's probably not a great chance. Even if it's only dried grease, they usually are worn so that they become notchy. Still, I wouldn't plan on buying bearings or getting pullers until you open them up and see. The welding trick works great if you have access to that. People also sometimes just cut them with a Dremel cutting wheel. I wouldn't choose that, but then I have access to a welder.


Here's some horror story pics from a bike that dropped a valve head. Pics are from Snowbum's site.