What the hell is this?

[Deleted User 62]

So I can rip this Shed Fuel system out? What does it do and what's the easiest way to get to it, top cover off? What size and thread screw is used for the nipple? Questions, questions

First take off the tank, starter cover and airbox cover. Then remove the pipes to the front of the head and the canisters shown here: Cut one of the metal pipes and remove the end caps. You can use these to hold a ball bearing or something similar in the boss still in the head. This saves the hassle of removing those bosses, which can be a real bear. It also makes it easier to replace the system down the road, if needed. There is a short wiring harness that can be removed and the remaining male and female connectors from the main harness are plugged together. Plug the holes in the airbox, timing hole covers work well for the larger ones, and a small bolt with locknut and washers where the "T" fitting from the carbs was. This is also a good time to add a crossover to the fuel lines to connect both sides. The screws are M3.5 x 6, pitch is 0.6 mm. They have a small fiber sealing washer as well. Hucky sells them: vacuum port screw: http://www.bmwhucky.com/007513.html

[ibjman]

Thank You for all your insightful opinions about my post!
I'll drink it all in to my "empty helmet" and continue to mull it all over in the future.
I stand by my position....and will not go into pages & pages of pro-con arguments about the various replies.
I don't have proof, only common sense experience.

I would think however that the results of the effectiveness of the system could be easily verified with a dyno and a simple CO/HC meter.

I'll share an event that I did witness years ago when I took a 1968 6 cylinder Chevrolet Nova to an emissions test station in California. We tested the vehicle at idle with and without the belt turning the Air Injection Reactor pump. (A system similar in function to the supplementary air system we're talking about on the BMW).
On the Chev.......there was measureable levels of HC/CO on the meters with the air system not functioning and at idle....no adjustment of idle carb mixtures cold improve that beyond a specific point.
I've been an automotive mechanic all of my life, most of it as an ASE master tech.....starting from when the ASE program was initiated and continuing till my retirement a couple of years ago. Even I was truly amazed in the result found when throwing that tiny belt back on the emissions air pump. It was a long time ago & I can't remember the readings, and this was before the days of Nox monitoring.......but in that era......addition of the air injection dropped the emissions levels to practically ZERO. The unburned Hydrocarbons were no longer even detectable by these very sensitive meters. The Co readings.....I truthfully can't recall a zero reading, but my memory is that they too were very low. In the general sense......my memory tells me that it was always find of a flip flop balancing act between CO and HC there was a point in the adjustment procedure where you had about the best average you could get......if you went leaner than a specific point with the CO, the HC would rise. if you went richer (to a point) the unburned HC would drop but the CO would rise. Generally I learned that in the absence of the meters, one could come very close by setting the carb(s) to what is called a "lean roll" condition. That is leaning the idle out to the leanest possible while obtaining the best rpm (smoothest idle) then leaning the idle screw 1/8 turn leaner to create the slightest possible appearance of a stumble at idle........usually imperceptible from the drivers seat.
Last.....I think that the statements made about the mfgs not putting any equipment on bikes that they weren't forced to, I agree......modern days vehicle probably would not ever had any emissions stuff had it not been mandated by law.
But....in the long run....although it's been a long and bumpy road through development stages.....we now have some very efficient machinery that runs very well with greatly improved emissions.
Regards, Ibj...

[bbelk]

Thank You for all your insightful opinions about my post!
I'll drink it all in to my "empty helmet" and continue to mull it all over in the future.

.....we now have some very efficient machinery that runs very well with greatly improved emissions.
Regards, Ibj...

Good defusing response with some reasons for your position and a concluding sentence even. All of our give and take around here should end so well, assuming it has ended.

[barryh]

......if you went leaner than a specific point with the CO, the HC would rise. if you went richer (to a point) the unburned HC would drop but the CO would rise. Generally I learned that in the absence of the meters, one could come very close by setting the carb(s) to what is called a "lean roll" condition. That is leaning the idle out to the leanest possible while obtaining the best rpm (smoothest idle) then leaning the idle screw 1/8 turn leaner to create the slightest possible appearance of a stumble at idle........usually imperceptible from the drivers seat....

Fully support what you are saying above and if well engineered the air injection has a positive impact on emmissions.

Leaving aside the ugly nature of the plumbing and this is a question rather than an assertion, is it not the case that air injection increases exhaust valve temperature ? If this is true, what with BMW's fun and games with unleaded exhaust valve seats, it has to be a powerfull incentive for some airhead owners to remove air injection.

[Major Softie]

But....in the long run....although it's been a long and bumpy road through development stages.....we now have some very efficient machinery that runs very well with greatly improved emissions.
Regards, Ibj...

And, THAT, I cannot disagree with. Sadly, the length of the development stage was far too long for the Boxer, as in from these first attempts we've been talking about until the 1150 twinspark, if not the 1200. They got it right on the K WAY sooner.

[ibjman]

So my newly acquired 1998 R1100RT is a "clunker"?
I have to admit I have no knowledge or experience with the oilheads........I admit that I'm about to learn from the beginning (the hard way)....but it helps to be able to use the wealth of knowledge in the forums.
Regards, ibj...

[Major Softie]

So my newly acquired 1998 R1100RT is a "clunker"?
I have to admit I have no knowledge or experience with the oilheads........I admit that I'm about to learn from the beginning (the hard way)....but it helps to be able to use the wealth of knowledge in the forums.
Regards, ibj...

No, not at all, and my R1100RS is a lot of fun too.

...but...

The 1100/1150 Oilheads have a surging issue right at cruising rpm that they are unable to cure with any stock solution. It can be improved, but not cured, by very careful throttle body balancing under load (the TwinMax is especially good for this). And, it varies with individual bikes and with location. My 1100 has very little surge at sea level, but is quite bad at higher elevations. Sadly, I live at about 6700 feet. If I lived at sea level I doubt I would have done anything about it.

I understand that, for whatever reason, it does not seem to be as bad on the GS's, but it's still there.

There are complete cures, but they involve modifications to the FI electronics (such as the Dynojet Power Commander, and Techlusion TFI) which do not satisfy your desire maintain your emissions at stock levels. They do, however, make the bike run absolutely perfectly. The Power Commander V, with its higher tech O2 sensor, is especially good at getting the motor in perfect tune.

My bike no longer has any surge issues. But, as mentioned earlier, it does still have it's evaporative emissions canister.


Check out the IBMWR.org Oilhead Tech pages for all Bob Lentini's advice on surging, as well as the info on the impact of GS intake tubes. They lower the rpm of your torque peak and flatten out a rather deep dip in torque from 4000 to 4500 that occurs with the stock tubes. You lose about 5 peak HP, but gain that lower in the rpm range where you are far more likely to use it. They are a VERY popular mod. So much so, there's a good chance a previous owner may have already done it, but, if they haven't, you should consider it. If your bike has noticeable surging, there's lots of info there to try. If it doesn't seem to have a problem, then don't worry about it, but the GS tubes are still a great mod regardless.

[PITAPan]

So my newly acquired 1998 R1100RT is a "clunker"?
I have to admit I have no knowledge or experience with the oilheads........I admit that I'm about to learn from the beginning (the hard way)....but it helps to be able to use the wealth of knowledge in the forums.
Regards, ibj...

I follow the IBMWR tech list. Enough issues that I can't see giving up my airhead even if someone handed me one. But tht's newer stuff. The increased complexity has a price----just as the older simpler stuff has a price.