Lower draw lighting

[Zombie Master]

1984 R100

Anybody done any substitute lighting (LED, HID, or what) to lighten the charging system load? I'd like to be able to run heated grips with a heated jacket liner, high beam on, with peace of mind. Lat time I melted a rotor I was running only a vest and lights.

[Major Softie]

I wouldn't assume that your rotor failure was from the vest, but it's certainly not impossible.

I've only used the LED turn signals, and they are fantastic, far superior to OEM brightness, never burn out, and use far less power. You need a new flasher (unless you add resistors, and that defeats the whole lower power draw advantage), and, as turn signals, they don't do much for your overall current draw, but they are better.

The HID 35w headlights definitely work, and are nice and bright, but the source isn't the same size as an incandescent bulb, so you really need a whole unit with reflector and lens, not just a replacement lamp. The replacement lamp units tend to have a lot of spill above the low beam line, and really suck for your oncoming traffic. So, the good units aren't cheap, and they don't have full units available for every bike, but the complete units really do rock. Also, HID headlights are the only lighting part that are really going to have any serious impact on your overall power usage.

[Zombie Master]

. The replacement lamp units tend to have a lot of spill above the low beam line, and really suck for your oncoming traffic.

Sometimes those on-coming over-brite cars and bikes actually hurt my eyes. I wouldn't want to do that to other drivers.

I guess one of the big draws is the always on daytime running lights. Hmmmm.

[Major Softie]

Sometimes those on-coming over-brite cars and bikes actually hurt my eyes. I wouldn't want to do that to other drivers.

I guess one of the big draws is the always on daytime running lights. Hmmmm.

I haven't seen them for Airheads, but the hot new shit in that arena are headlights with LED daytime running lights and an HID lamp for nightime. That gets you down to something in the neighborhood of 10w in the daytime. I've been looking at lights for my "new" DR-Z400, and that's the new hot item in that world.

[sprints@pldi.net]

MS - are the turn signals a complete bolt on unit or is there a replacement 'bulb' that will fit my RT100 fairing turn signals? Also where does one find the flasher (do you have a make or model) - thanks - Rod

[She'llbe]

I've got the LED stop/taillight, it's great. I reckon the taillight is as bright as the regular brake light and the brake light is VERY bright. Turn signals and flasher unit is next.

[kutter]

The turn signals will not work with LED bulbs unless you
modify the original wiring. This only uses one indicator bulb
which means that when the left indicator is blinking its ground
is via the filament in the right indicator. When all indicator bulbs
are LEDs there is no earth path thru the opposite diode as it blocks the
current as diodes do.

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/electri ... diode-fix/

[Rob]

One of the (many) nice things about owning an airhead is the readily available LED taillight/brakelight board from Rick at Motorrad Elektrik.
www.motoelekt.com

[Major Softie]

MS - are the turn signals a complete bolt on unit or is there a replacement 'bulb' that will fit my RT100 fairing turn signals? Also where does one find the flasher (do you have a make or model) - thanks - Rod

I've only modified other motorcycles for LED's, so I don't know what flasher would work for your bike. It has to be an LED capable electronic flasher or the minimal load of the LED's won't trigger the flasher, or perhaps they will blink ridiculously fast - like a strobe. Plus there's the wiring issue kutter just mentioned, but that's not really difficult to modify.
(Note, kutter's post may confuse you a little because he uses the work "indicator" both for the dash light and for the turn signal light. His point is that the dash light won't work without the minor modification shown on his link.)
EDIT: Kutter also says that the signals won't work without the wiring modification, and this isn't quite true. Without the wiring mod, the signals will work, but the indicator on the dash will not.

Does the RT take an 1156? If so, there are multiple sources out there - here's one: http://www.chromeglow.com/store.asp?pid=28889

They vary between fairly pricey and stupid expensive. Awfully nice on a dirt bike though, 'cause they don't fail nearly as easily from vibration.

[Roy Gavin]

On my G/S a pair of $20- LED indicators work fine with the stock components and a resistor in the line.

I bought the resistor at the same time as the indicators and the shop only had one type. ,The indicators probably flash a little faster than OEM,but not enough to be a concern.

They were originally intended as a temp fix while the rack was being repaired and powdercoated, the rack has refitted for about a year but I haven't got round to the indicators yet, but when I do they are small enough I could probably fit them inside the stock indicator.