Boxerworks.com

EBC Kevlar organic

barryh wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2019 8:01 am EBC Kevlar organic

No that then...

Rob

EBC orgasmics for me too. FA18 or similar iirc.

Thanks Rob. In my original post, i stated they were EBC. The pads were working fine for a year or so, and as of lately, I'm realizing that my wrists are taking the brunt of the effort to squeeze less effective pads. My thought is that the pads got 'glazed' somehow and don't have the bite anymore to grab the disks.

jjwithers wrote: ↑Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:23 pm Thanks Rob. In my original post, i stated they were EBC. The pads were working fine for a year or so, and as of lately, I'm realizing that my wrists are taking the brunt of the effort to squeeze less effective pads. My thought is that the pads got 'glazed' somehow and don't have the bite anymore to grab the disks.

Hi, The post about pad make was 'aimed' at Barry, the other was supposed to be in answer to your post... It always makes things complicated when we are discussing more than one issue in the same thread...

Rob

I take responsibility for sending this thread sideways...

FWIW, the lower brake pipe that connects to the calipers were too funky (bent) and there was air in the system, plus the right rotor is pretty worn. I'm changing all that out and hoping to be back in business soon.

On the ATE swinging caliper it is essential that the caliper swings freely on the pivot pin, and that the pivot pin also turns freely in its housing.
I use Honda Moly 60 grease , bought a stash years ago for the splines on the Para driveshaft.
Dont think relubing the pin gets much of a mentiona mention in the service list.

In the handbook for my R75/7 the procedure for aligning a new set of pads is simply to apply the brakes real hard, not the chalk and twist the pin which seems to have come in later.
To work their best the calipers and pins both have to pivot every time the brake is applied, so if the pads dont line up with a good squeeze then you are starting behind the eightball.

When I can get them I like EBC hh pads , but havent found them or any other hh pads for the ATE set up.
I have had all my M/Cs sleeved down to 11 mm so I get a good squeeze on the hh pads and get them up to temp quickly, they need a bit heat to work properly!

@Beemerboff - how do you sleeve down your mc? I have changed my master c to bar-mounted,meant for a later model I guess, but still have the single ATE-setup on my /6. Understood to late that this master probably is to big.
Steel-braided lines and all. Brake feel like a brick and it is not very efficient in braking...So if resleeving is an option...
Thanks!

hal wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 5:51 am @Beemerboff - how do you sleeve down your mc? I have changed my master c to bar-mounted,meant for a later model I guess, but still have the single ATE-setup on my /6. Understood to late that this master probably is to big.
Steel-braided lines and all. Brake feel like a brick and it is not very efficient in braking...So if resleeving is an option...
Thanks!

You might be better off looking for a smaller master cylinder but first you will need to know the size of the one you have fitted. These masters are available in sizes from 12mm to 16mm. The size is marked under the casting. You don't have to replace the lever support, the master simply unbolts from it.

Sleeving down is a job for a good machinist using machine tools. It involves machining out the cylinder then letting in a precisely machined tube that is an intereference fit with the internal diameter being the desired size. You must then drill the ports through the sleeve to allow fluid into and out of the master. Bearing in mind that, even when you have sleeved the cylinder, you still have to buy the piston and seals to reassemble it, it is probably as economic to get a complete master cylinder...

Rob