Boxerworks.com

Yes, the ball joints are certainly an improvement. For preference I go for the type that have a left hand thread at one end of the rod (aftermarket I think, the BMW OEM ones have right handed threads at both ends) since this makes adjustment of the pedal height very easy...

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 5:46 am Yes, the ball joints are certainly an improvement. For preference I go for the type that have a left hand thread at one end of the rod (aftermarket I think, the BMW OEM ones have right handed threads at both ends) since this makes adjustment of the pedal height very easy...

Rob

Yes I can see the benefit of that setup and I will be going to my local engineering shop for the parts, would love to move the L/H foot rest back to bring it in line with the R/H one.

jackonz wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 2:11 am

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 5:46 am Yes, the ball joints are certainly an improvement. For preference I go for the type that have a left hand thread at one end of the rod (aftermarket I think, the BMW OEM ones have right handed threads at both ends) since this makes adjustment of the pedal height very easy...

Rob

Yes I can see the benefit of that setup and I will be going to my local engineering shop for the parts, would love to move the L/H foot rest back to bring it in line with the R/H one.

I've done that as part of going to the jointed link and I like it quite a lot. Use a right side peg and weld a boss onto it. You'll need to make a long link rod. It was a member here from NZ who inspired me to do so. Details are in my "Woo Hoo" thread about my R75/6.

melville wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 9:25 am

jackonz wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 2:11 am

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 5:46 am Yes, the ball joints are certainly an improvement. For preference I go for the type that have a left hand thread at one end of the rod (aftermarket I think, the BMW OEM ones have right handed threads at both ends) since this makes adjustment of the pedal height very easy...

Rob

Yes I can see the benefit of that setup and I will be going to my local engineering shop for the parts, would love to move the L/H foot rest back to bring it in line with the R/H one.

I've done that as part of going to the jointed link and I like it quite a lot. Use a right side peg and weld a boss onto it. You'll need to make a long link rod. It was a member here from NZ who inspired me to do so. Details are in my "Woo Hoo" thread about my R75/6.

Thanks Mel I will look in to that.

jackonz wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 5:45 pm

melville wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 9:25 am

jackonz wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 2:11 am

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 5:46 am Yes, the ball joints are certainly an improvement. For preference I go for the type that have a left hand thread at one end of the rod (aftermarket I think, the BMW OEM ones have right handed threads at both ends) since this makes adjustment of the pedal height very easy...

Rob

Yes I can see the benefit of that setup and I will be going to my local engineering shop for the parts, would love to move the L/H foot rest back to bring it in line with the R/H one.

I've done that as part of going to the jointed link and I like it quite a lot. Use a right side peg and weld a boss onto it. You'll need to make a long link rod. It was a member here from NZ who inspired me to do so. Details are in my "Woo Hoo" thread about my R75/6.

Thanks Mel I will look in to that.

Here's the actual work of the project:

https://www.forum.boxerworks.com/viewto ... &start=340

Have fun!

SteveD wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 8:46 am ME 109 lowered the contact attachment point for the front ball joint. From memory he was very happy with the resultant improvement with the change.

I couldn't imagine going back to the stock pivot point, waay too much travel.

ME 109 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:27 pm

SteveD wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 8:46 am ME 109 lowered the contact attachment point for the front ball joint. From memory he was very happy with the resultant improvement with the change.

I couldn't imagine going back to the stock pivot point, waay too much travel.

That is interesting, any idea how far down he moved it?

It's got to wear things out. If the bike is operating properly, it shouldn't be required. Once you get use to the timing, it should not be any more difficult to shift than any other bike. I go from airhead to modern machines without a thought.

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2023 11:46 am It's got to wear things out. If the bike is operating properly, it shouldn't be required. Once you get use to the timing, it should not be any more difficult to shift than any other bike. I go from airhead to modern machines without a thought.

Mechanically speaking, it shouldn't make a difference. The tranny shift lever still requires the same amount of load to shift gear.
The insignificant extra load felt through the foot shift lever doesn't significantly change/increase load applied to the tranny shift lever, imo.
The reduction in foot lever travel to shift gears up and down is a positive in my experience, especially when chasing sports bikes in the tight stuff.
Having said that, I have experienced increasing false neutrals over the last few years. Started out only when the tranny was hot after being on the hunt, mostly 4th to 3rd. Then 3rd to 2nd false neutrals started to increase, but same deal only when under the pump.
Now the false neutrals are a lot easier to occur.
I have a tranny from Timo from Hawaii/Big Bamboo that I rebuilt a few years ago, that's ready to swap in.
I'll pull my current tranny apart and spec all the shift mechanism which has old style shift cams, check shift fork tolerances etc etc.