Got a "tiny" charging problem...

[Kermit]

The stator won't produce any output until you get some current flowing through the rotor. It sounds like that isn't happening initially because of a break in the wiring somewhere. It might help to break things down into sections. For example, using the diagram above take a temporary feed from the battery +ve to the green blue side of the charge lamp. If it lights up by being earthed via the regulator and rotor you will know that side of the circuit is OK and you can then trace back in the other direction to find the break.

I easily admit I'm not this good when it comes to DC circuitry and this diagram, although very valuable, is more information than I can understand already. BUT, I'm willing to progress, so I'm going to do exactly as you said: break the problem into smaller pieces.
I will be testing continuity with my multimeter, and also try to feed voltage in order to bypass possibly faulty components.
Bear with me, that's a first for me.

Thanks again for your help. It contributes to the feeling I can do it.

[Kermit]

I have dismantled the dash again for further investigation. There was a burnt dim light that needed replacing anyway.
Armed with a tester with a probe, I thought maybe I could have the lights to light one by one.

Screenshot from 2025-10-20 18-52-47.png (1.41 MiB) Viewed 146 times

Call me dumb, but I should be able to light the charge bulb as well, shouldn't I?
I managed to light all of them but this one. Is there something I'm missing?

[Kurt in S.A.]

You might have a break in the copper foil that is part of the circuit. Might want to consider opting for the Kat Dash replacement:

https://katdash.com/

Kurt

[Kermit]

You might have a break in the copper foil that is part of the circuit. Might want to consider opting for the Kat Dash replacement:

https://katdash.com/

Kurt

I'm going to explore this option. Thank you very much Kurt.

[gspd]

Check the contact surface between the bulb holder and printed circuit.

[Kermit]

Alright, so it happens that taking good pictures helps.
By zooming on the previous one, I managed to get that the pins involved for the gen bulb are (starting from the bottom) the second one on the left, and the third one on the right.
After a second cleaning, I placed the bulb and holder back in and it lit.

Let's have a test on the bike now.

[Kermit]

Check the contact surface between the bulb holder and printed circuit.

Yeah! This is what I figured.
Thanks a lot for this as this confirms that this is working as it should now.

That's some great help I'm getting from you. Thanks again.

[gspd]

Before going any further, check for continuity between the female connector pin in the dash plug to the blue wire at the regulator. It's the one that corresponds to your "the third one on the right" male pin in the pic.

[Kermit]

Before going any further, check for continuity between the female connector pin in the dash plug to the blue wire at the regulator. It's the one that corresponds to your "the third one on the right" male pin in the pic.

Couldn't wait, I had to test it and look what I got!

Screenshot from 2025-10-20 20-44-38.png (1.87 MiB) Viewed 122 times

That's a good sign. A first one. I'm still going to do the continuity test you suggest, but maybe a lit on bulb does it for the continuity.

Alright I may still have a charging issue, but I can't go any further today. Stay tuned, I might come back with some more annoying questions.

I can't thank you enough for your support in my quest.

[gspd]

I'm still going to do the continuity test you suggest, but maybe a lit on bulb does it for the continuity.

Continuity test no longer necessary.
Lit bulb = continuity.

Just a tip. As shown in your first pic, your brush tension spring is too 'loose'. You should wind it a full turn tighter. Remove the stator and check the inside one also.
Although it sounds counterintuitive, the brushes last longer and perform better with more pressure on them.
Both springs should be tightly wound, like this: