Boxerworks.com

Cycleworks sell the insert and will hire the rig to install it, either a helicoil or a timesert or similar if you have a stripped helicoil

MCboston wrote:

esman100 wrote:The Timeserts are much larger as mentioned above and I'm certain that they will work. If it doesn't then you can have an oversize insert machined at a machine shop or look at many other standard oversize insert sources. I would not replace the case.

With very little aluminum left between stud hole and cylinder opening I am trying to keep the insert size minimal, but appreciate any input and will have a look at the timeserts you mentioned. Any idea why Snowbum is against them?
And yes, I will try anything short of replacing the case as the engine as a whole is in great shape.

I'm not sure why Snowbum is against them, but I suspect that he may think the threads are a bit fine for Aluminum. I have a lot of respect for Snowbum and I'm sure if you made contact with him he would be happy to elaborate on this. I, however would not be afraid to try the Timesert, knowing that I would have room later on, if needed, to install a larger custom insert. I think the key to case thread longevity is having an accurate torque wrench and torquing 25 ft lbs max.

I have been torquing the heads on my airheads to 22 ft/lbs for many years now.

Garnet wrote:I have been torquing the heads on my airheads to 22 ft/lbs for many years now.

I wonder if even less torque would be sufficient. Say 20 or 18 ft/lbs. Remember, when the bike gets hot that expanding aluminum increases the torque on those steel studs and nuts. How low can you go on torque and still hold the oil in?

mattcfish wrote:

Garnet wrote:I have been torquing the heads on my airheads to 22 ft/lbs for many years now.

I wonder if even less torque would be sufficient. Say 20 or 18 ft/lbs. Remember, when the bike gets hot that expanding aluminum increases the torque on those steel studs and nuts. How low can you go on torque and still hold the oil in?

I have gone as low as 17 or 18 (can't remeber) and had no leaks, but I guess that the 25 ft/lb spec is there for a reason.

SUCCESS!!
I wound up using a case saver from a vw shop. The stud in question is the right upper front and a time-sert or in this case big-sert would have obstructed the oil passage as they are designed to be mounted flush with the surface. I cut the case-saver down to 20mm so it fits right behind the oil hole and extends all the way back. The case saver threaded in quite easliy by hand and red locktite set it in place. I found metal chip containment pretty easy using gorilla tape over the back of the hole and grease inside. Before the locktite set up there seemed to be a bit of wiggle between case saver and case especially with the stud inserted. I hope this holds and will check the torque after about 100 miles.
Thanks to all who replied!

Well done!
Go easy tightening those bolts.

Used an insert from HPD in Boulder, jig from Cycleworks to replace a helicoil gone bad. Not a difficult fix if you take your time.