Boxerworks.com

That looks like the ticket Slash!
I wonder if they're sold in Aus?
Prolly won't help me for next weekend but I'd like to track one down.

ME 109 wrote:I've looked on the net at a few home made ideas, but not so good for out on the road.
Maybe a modified 'c' or 'g' clamp...

Funny this, one thread we're talking how easily a tubeless tyre may come off the rim, and now I'm wondering how to get the bloody tyre off to fix a tube puncture.

Rather than a "C" or "G" clamp, I think one of these may work as well and be easier on the tire. They come in smaller sizes.

Worth a look too Native.
I wonder if the 'points' would want to slip away from the rim as it was tightened?

Either way, I'd better find something to take away with me.

Hey!

I just had another idea!

(That's two in one day. Now I'm exhausted).

For a travel-sized "bead seater," possibly a good quality rope cut to the appropriate size for a particular tire size, with a loop tied in either end. Some sporting goods stores sell braided ropes for rock-climbing, with a small diameter and high strength.A short wooden dowel (broom-handle stock) is inserted into the two loops, and the rope centered on the tire tread around its complete circumference. Begin turning (twisting) the dowel until the rope tightens enough to expand the sidewalls enough to contact the rim. Hit it with a blast of air and the tire should (theoretically) seat against the rim. If it doesn't, select the curse-word stream of your choice, and repeat the actions. The materials needed are light and compact for traveling.

When I was a construction equipment mechanic, we did something similar, except with large ratcheting tie-down straps. Then we'd spray some starting fluid around the bead, and flip a lit match at it from about ten feet away. The rapidly expanding gases are enough to instantly seat the tire on the rim. Dangerous to be sure, but when standing in a muddy field at a job-site, it gets the equipment back online, which is everyone's main priority.

I once added too much starting fluid, and the rapidly-expanding tire seated the bead and ripped the ratchet right out of the webbed strap. They tell me the trajectory and hang-time of the ratchet was a truly beautiful thing, but I was busy crouching with my arms over my head.

So, I don't use starting fluid anymore.

ME 109 wrote:I've looked on the net at a few home made ideas, but not so good for out on the road.
Maybe a modified 'c' or 'g' clamp...

I'm thinking that since you're handy with welding and metal (understatement for effect) that you could invent something lighter and better than you could find--and maybe you could make it take-down to boot so it'll fit better in your luggage.

The requirement will be one flat strip of iron to catch the rim on the back of the tire with a smaller piece of flat iron to press between the rim and the tire on the other side. And then you will need some kind of frame to hold the flat pieces of iron and a screw to squeeze them together.

To illustrate the concept I break the beads on my tires by using a woodworking vice on my bench. I open the jaws and tilt the tire to the rear a bit so that the rear jaw will catch the rim. Then I start closing the vice adjusting the tire lean so that the top of the front jaw squeezes just below the rim.

I'm thinking of 1/4" flat stock, some square tubing, and at least a 1/2" diameter screw. Maybe two screws, analagous to the wood working clamp Native /5 posted. Maybe even copy that idea in metal.

You might need to make two of them because even with the wide jaws on my woodworking vice and squeezing the hell out of the tire, the damned bead of the tire will stubbornly cling to the rim. Using my woodworking vice I will often need to grab a large C clamp and similarly use it elsewhere on the tire to get the bead to finally break.

Maybe you need two of Native /5's woodworking clamps in metal. I'm visualizing one leg longer than other and maybe a projection welded across the longer jaw to catch on the rim to make absolutely sure it won't slip. The biggest problem will be that the back "jaw" of the device will hold onto the rim quite nicely, but the nearside jaw will want to move away from the juncture between the rim edge and the tire bead.

Abandoning the steel wood working clamp approach, maybe the device you build something more analagous to a large deep throated C clamp. It would be fitted "backwards" through the rim such that the back side of the C clamp will hit the rim and prevent the one "jaw" from trying to scoot away from the rim/bead juncture.

When trying to break the bead I will sometimes spray a liquid dish washing soap and water mixture along the bead with the hopes that it will find it's way inside and lubricate things enough to make the break. I've never had that method fail me, though I've had to fiddle with things a bit to get it to happen.

Of course with the shop made bead breaker (or breakers) you'll be loathe to add a spray bottle full of soapy water. But you'll have some beer along. And the liquid doesn't have to be sprayed. Bring a small bottle full of soap and with a bottle of your favorite beer you'll probably be able to get 'er done. You'll need another bottle or two to fortify yourself for the task.

ME 109 wrote:Funny this, one thread we're talking how easily a tubeless tyre may come off the rim, and now I'm wondering how to get the bloody tyre off to fix a tube puncture.

That is a fine juxtaposition!


Ken

There is a bead-breaker that looks like a BIG "C" or "G" with wide pads sold by more than one shop just for bead-breaking.
A deep-throat (careful there guys...) welders clamp with some custom "feet" will also do the job. The feet could be made of wood with pockets to fit the clamp pads.
Straping around the outside to reseat the bead is how a lot of older tire operators seated beads on ALL tubless tires, before tire design, rim design and really high-pressure high volume air got to be the norm.
I recall "Dennis Kirk" had such a bead breaker in their catalog. Enduro folks take such things along with them in their tool kit.

Tyrepliers

I understand that the price will likely scare you airheads right out of your tight vinyl seats ...
but the concept works and, perhaps, could be replicated.

Before purchasing a tire changer w/ attached bead breaker ...
(You think a tire on a flake is a problem ? Try breaking a 180/55-ZR17 low profile wide radial ...)
a C-clamp fitted with wooden pads worked quite successfully on (WM2) flakes, other WM2s,
and (MT) BMW Y-spokes.
Breaking a bead on the road is a typically moot concern with tubeless tires. Plug-n-go.

vanzen@rockerboxer.com wrote: I understand that the price will likely scare you airheads right out of your tight vinyl seats ...

Tis nice when ones talents are recognized.

At home I use a bumper jack with the rim on the ground, to compress the tire - you might be able to do the same with a scissors jack - the wheel on the ground under the bike (assuming it's raised up on the center stand) and use the scissors jack and the weight of the bike to force the tire off the rim - maybe . . .

http://compare.ebay.com/like/220752613763

This looks like it will break down for transport pretty easily

OR.....this one

http://www.pashnit.com/product/beadbrakr.html