Boxerworks.com

CheshireCat wrote:Alright, fighting with the timing again today. I did test all four sparks, and my left cylinder randomly stops sparking for short periods of time.
I'm also conidering getting this kit http://www.rockypointcycle.com/p-bmw8_e ... dpkit.html, it look like it would fix everything and hopefuly give better performance. Thoughts?

Totally unnecessary if your problem is a coil, but a fine solution if it's some failing part of the magic electronics.

Yea, it comes with new coils though, and just looks like a really solid system. But your right, if I was to just replace the coils, are the green dynas the best choice? They are what were already on there, but that doesn't mean they're right

Are you talking about the green Dyna coils like the one shown on this page:

http://www.motoelekt.com/ignition.htm

It says they're 3ohm and proper for the 1970-1980 Airheads.

Kurt in S.A.

Yea I've read that but still unsure since my bike doesn't have points anymore and its dual plugged.

"GREEN coils have 3 ohms primary resistance, Single coil for 1970 - 1980 models with points."

*edit*

Glad I haven't invested in any electrical part yet. I tried to start my bike today only to have it thud, and then make the sound of hydraulic pressure in one cylinder. Popped the lower plug out and about a quarter cup of gas poured out Same cylinder I was already having problems on. I already had a new gasket kit coming for my carbs, but could the floats cause that much gas to flood the cylinder when the bike has sat for a night?

I have the Boyer system and it has performed perfectly, with a real good curve and instant first time starts.

You could probably save around half the cost by buying from one of the English suppliers - the links to them are in the other ignition topic which has been running for the past week or so.

You should be using Dyna Brown coils with a dual plug Dyna system. With a Dyna system you combine the ohm rating on the coils. Two 1.5 ohm browns =3ohms total. 3 ohm greens are for a single coil single plug set up. Ran that for years before I dual plugged.
If you're thinking about a new ignition The Boyer system is nice, but a crankshaft mounted system is even better because you don't deal with slop from the timing chain or bent cam nose issues.
I love my dual channel Sachse unit. http://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsys ... ypes-.html
The Sachse will work with your green coils.

CheshireCat wrote:Yea I've read that but still unsure since my bike doesn't have points anymore and its dual plugged.

"GREEN coils have 3 ohms primary resistance, Single coil for 1970 - 1980 models with points."

*edit*

Glad I haven't invested in any electrical part yet. I tried to start my bike today only to have it thud, and then make the sound of hydraulic pressure in one cylinder. Popped the lower plug out and about a quarter cup of gas poured out Same cylinder I was already having problems on. I already had a new gasket kit coming for my carbs, but could the floats cause that much gas to flood the cylinder when the bike has sat for a night?

1/4 cup of gas in the cylinder....you've got a problem. A flooded or improperly adjusted float or (more common) your needle valve is warn out. Usually if either is the problem you'll get a large puddle of gas on the ground as well, because the float chamber has an over flow port. Are you using the center stand or leaning it over on the side stand?
When parked for long periods always use the center stand and shut off the petcocks.

How much gas is in the crankcase oil?

I'll definitely read up on the sachs unit yea the brown coils make more sense.
I do always leave the bike on the centerstand with the petcocks off,ad as long as they are off the bowls don't tend to leak onto the ground. I'll check the floats tomorrow.
As for the gas in the crankcase. I don't know yet, but I started getting a flashing oil light while buzzing around town, mostly happened while I was downshifting hard. Started happening more and more though. Going to look it over tomorrow.
Just read about the 2000$ O-ring, so I might go get a filter and make sure its ok.

Is it usually ok to just top the oil up again to keep riding?

CheshireCat wrote:I'll definitely read up on the sachs unit yea the brown coils make more sense.
I do always leave the bike on the centerstand with the petcocks off,ad as long as they are off the bowls don't tend to leak onto the ground. I'll check the floats tomorrow.
As for the gas in the crankcase. I don't know yet, but I started getting a flashing oil light while buzzing around town, mostly happened while I was downshifting hard. Started happening more and more though. Going to look it over tomorrow.
Just read about the 2000$ O-ring, so I might go get a filter and make sure its ok.

Is it usually ok to just top the oil up again to keep riding?

When that light flashes, it means your oil pressure has dropped.

Your flashing oil light is quite possibly due to the oil having become way too thin because it has a bunch of gasoline in it. In such a case, just adding more oil is not the solution - you need to change the oil and filter (along with fixing the problem that is allowing the gas to leak).

If the light is flashing occasionally because the oil level is too low, that's the sort of thing that should be addressed IMMEDIATELY by adding some oil.