Joper wrote:Thanks for all the help and tips! I really appreciate it
I will go thru everything while im already in this "deep". Just waiting for my manual i ordered for some specs.
It would definitely be worth paying for shipping for me, its quite hard to find good used parts for these bikes here in Sweden. If i dont find anything good i would be very happy to buy a camshaft and lifters from someone here!
"and the new on better have a strait nose---beware of that!"
What does this mean? Ive read about the oilpumps inner rotor that differs between different camshafts, does this refer to that?
Again, really appreciate all the help!
/Johan
To expand on what ken was saying:
The cam is made in two pieces. The nose that the advance unit rides on is pressed into the main cam body. The running surfaces on the nose need to be dead concentric with the longitudinal axis of the cam--that is, the cam bearing surfaces. The "d" on the very tip needs to be radially aligned with the cam lobes so the advance unit is "timed" to the lobes. The two common cam failures are for someone (not you!) to over tighten the nut on the tip of the cam and break the very threaded tip off. Big OOPS. The tip can also get cocked in it's bore (where it is pressed into the cam body) and fail to remain concentric. The runout then causes the the advance unit to wobble side to side and you see the double image in the timing hole with your strobe light. These are the killers of the cams and some breaker selling a used one may have no idea if the nose is strait or not---or it may have gotten banged along the way...
I had this problem on my /5. As I was going to dual plugs anyway, I just fitted an electronic ignition and that was the end of it. A few months ago I was tearing down that block (it had been in storage for years) and decided to take a crack at straitening the cam nose. I only have a single V block so I installed it in the block to work on. I first drove the nose strait inwards to tighten it in it's bore. Some modified nuts and a medium hammer for that. This removed most of the mis-alignment. I then tapped it sideways with my smallest Japanese carpentry hammer (about 50 grams and perfectly balanced) to remove the rest, checking the work with a dial indicator while turning the cam. Came out quite nicely. I was tapping at the very root of the nose where it goes into the main cam body. Then some penetrating Locktight just because. So the straightness is good. But I don't know how well it will last. if I were going to run that motor rather than scrapping the block (no-one wants it
I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
I have heard stories of people getting good deals on German eBay and getting stuff shipped to US. But like I said, I have the one here if you get stuck. Figure out a deal.
What manual did you get? You want the Clymers and the Bing manuals first. You can get pages (like the spec. charts) from the expensive factory manual e-mailed to you if you know what I mean. Take a day or so to get them scanned.
You are wise to watch the slippery slope of doing more and more. If you have an original timing chain it has no master link. You either pull the cam and crank as a pair the way it was built(difficult) or you cut the chain. If replacing an original chain you also replace the crank sprocket. The cam sprocket will last for two crank sprockets so that just gets pressed off the old cam and onto the new one. But now you are into a new chain, crank sprocket, front crank bearing, front crank and cam seals, oil pump seal, front cover gasket, head and base gaskets, likely pushrod tube seals, new crank and driveshaft bolts, new points compartment seal, etc. It's adding up. You mention recent engine work. If the chain and sprockets are pretty new, you will have a master link and you can just R&R what you got, only replacing the cam nose seal--tho' that too may be fresh. Replacing the clip on the master link is a good idea just like the piston pin circlips if you pull the pistons off.
Spray some carb cleaner through the carb passages (just take the bowls off). Those will be on the shelf until you are done so you don't want any gas in them.
If someone offers you some Lutfisk, just say no.
You do not go through "everything". You only go through what needs it. This is why I said to check the big end bearings. This will tell you if you want to go further evaluating the crank. The crank bearings are very robust and seldom give any problems. Extremely lonmg lasting---you don't wan to mess with unless other damage indicates they should be checked. You will check your crank and cam end play when you build and correct as needed.
You evaluate the cam nose runout on the bench by putting it in two V blocks on a surface plate and rotating it against a dial indicator. Any machine shop can do this for you quickly for not a lot of money. I only have one V block so I put the cam in the block and used my dial indicator there.
