Boxerworks.com

2valve wrote: Not a problem Rob , but have no idea how to load it on this site could you flick am a email and i'll send it to you ?

Email sent. Now, I suggest you edit your post and remove your easily spam-botted email address.

On its way Rob.

bbelk wrote:My 1975 R90/6 has developed a wobble. It presents itself somewhere above 75 MPH. It is not consistent and responds to road surface and wind. It is not violent, it is just a couple inches of full body wobble and its damn scary.

Tires are new. . . .

Brad, did you have the new front tire before the wobble developed? I'm always suspicious of front tires (especially)

Ken

Rob wrote: Now, I suggest you edit your post and remove your easily spam-botted email address.

Hi Rob, Have done that already

2valve wrote:My vote goes to the steering head bearings.

I am betting on this too.

Rob wrote:I don't remember having any side-to-side play that could be felt. If the play is fore/aft, I don't see how that would be a good thing.
Do you have the shocks detached for these measurements?

It was side to side and it adjusted out. I did not remove the shocks or even the wheel. I just pushed and shoved on things looking for play. After the adjustment, there was none.

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:did you have the new front tire before the wobble developed? I'm always suspicious of front tires (especially)
Ken

This was the first trip on the new tire. I didn't do any long trips on this bike in 2014 and I don't get to go 80 around town much and I don't usually have my bags all packed either so I really don't know if the problem was there before the new tire or not.

I guess I am going to have to load up my bags and go for a ride far enough out of town to see if the swing arm adjustment did anything. I will probably do something about the head bearings in any case, so if I don't get a test run before then, I may not know what fixes the problem.

The steering has a slight notch in it and it is slightly stiff. I will replace those barings.

I just watched a video on how to do it and it does not look like much fun.

Does anybody recommend that I try this myself. I don't own any of the special tools or a mig welder.

I'd order the Cycle Works tool for removing the races, then sell it here or on the IBMWR. http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=64

The guy in the how-to movie had two different varieties of tool, neither of which worked. He used a Mig Welder, a torch, and a great deal of percussive engineering with a air chisel. A scary looking operation that is somewhat of a commitment since the bike can't be moved once it has started. The whole job cost about $400 including parts on my R65 so I think I have my answer.

I have pulled the fairing off and will take it to the local Airhead guy when it quits raining.

I replaced mine on my R65, Brad.
If I can do it, anyone can.
The lower race, I cut out with a Dremel. The upper race I pulled. I don't remember what kind of tool I used. A regular (cheap) puller? Too long ago.

I did buy Cycle Works swingarm bearing race tool. Works a treat. Cheaper, too. I recommend it.

If you or a friend is handy with welding, the "clean" way to remove the outer races is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the race. When it cools, the race contracts and falls out (so I've heard).

Yes, big project, especially with the fairing.

You don't have to weld it in the sense of adding new material, just a run with a oxy unit will also shrink it down.

That isn't related to the wobble though.