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daz wrote:This nut?

Yes that one and it's twin on the other side.

daz wrote:Future please keep us posted as to your success. I have a fine 3/4 inch drive socket ground down flat with a long 3/4 inch drive breaker bar maybe 18 inches long. I've been unable to loosen that nut. But I have not messed it up either. Nor have I used heat. To change fork seals on my '95 R100 I dropped the bottom part of the fork. I wonder if they used locktite or some thread sealer? Anyone else have any experience with these modern fork nuts?

I too dropped the bottom of the forks to do the seals when i first got the bike as i could not get the nuts to move at all.

I think the nuts are 32mm. I use a wrench that my dad gave me. He had found a German car toolkit at a garage sale and it had a black painted wrench that is a complete wrap around of the 32mm nut. It is shaped perfectly for a few whacks from a rubber mallet to undo or tighten the nuts. It turns out that the wrench is the generator nut wrench from a Porsche 356. Before I had that wrench, I used a socket. The champhered (spellcheck says this is wrong but does not know what the word is!) part of the socket needs to be ground away, presenting a full engagement to the nut. If that sounds mildly sexual, you are a normal, healthy male.

Chuey

G'Day Ross,
Have that system on my bike, it's very different, It's very tight but!!
you have to hold the center with allen key to take the nut off. the allen key slug/thing comes off separately
If I remember rightly, the slug/thing is held in with a circlip, not sure?
You do need to tighten the nut and hold the allan key on assembly.

Chuey wrote:I think the nuts are 32mm. I use a wrench that my dad gave me. He had found a German car toolkit at a garage sale and it had a black painted wrench that is a complete wrap around of the 32mm nut. It is shaped perfectly for a few whacks from a rubber mallet to undo or tighten the nuts. It turns out that the wrench is the generator nut wrench from a Porsche 356. Before I had that wrench, I used a socket. The champhered (spellcheck says this is wrong but does not know what the word is!) part of the socket needs to be ground away, presenting a full engagement to the nut. If that sounds mildly sexual, you are a normal, healthy male.Chuey

Whatever you do Ross...don't use the shifter. Guaranteed to bugger the nut.

The ground socket is the way to go.

Bob Bennett wrote:G'Day Ross,
Have that system on my bike, it's very different, It's very tight but!!
you have to hold the center with allen key to take the nut off. the allen key slug/thing comes off separately
If I remember rightly, the slug/thing is held in with a circlip, not sure?
You do need to tighten the nut and hold the allan key on assembly.

Thanks for that Bob. I don't know why i didn't ask this when I was with you guys??? D!OH @ me.

SteveD wrote:Whatever you do Ross...don't use the shifter. Guaranteed to bugger the nut.

The ground socket is the way to go.

I will have to go by Supercheap and see what sizes they have. I know shifters slip off... I know.. shakes head...

I did use a shifter!! Maybe a ring spanner could be benifical as you may need to hold the
allen head to both undo and tighten the nut.

Bob Bennett wrote:I did use a shifter!! Maybe a ring spanner could be benifical as you may need to hold the
allen head to both undo and tighten the nut.

I am glad you mentioned this about the allen key mate.