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Duane Ausherman wrote: Once off, you will find the pan surface distorted at each bolt hole. Use a hammer to flatten it out again. As mentioned, use great care in tightening those bolts. I ONLY use a screwdriver with a socket to tighten and even then not very tight.

I would never have thought of a hammer on a cast aluminum pan. I would have used a large flat file or even sand paper glued to a large pane of glass. I've used the glass and sandpaper to correct slightly warped aluminum automotive heads where they were blowing head gaskets if only if they were a few thousands off.

jdvorchak wrote:

Duane Ausherman wrote: Once off, you will find the pan surface distorted at each bolt hole. Use a hammer to flatten it out again. As mentioned, use great care in tightening those bolts. I ONLY use a screwdriver with a socket to tighten and even then not very tight.

I would never have thought of a hammer on a cast aluminum pan. I would have used a large flat file or even sand paper glued to a large pane of glass. I've used the glass and sandpaper to correct slightly warped aluminum automotive heads where they were blowing head gaskets if only if they were a few thousands off.

He is probably thinking of the /2 sheet steel pan not the cast aluminum pan after 1970 models.

Thanks robert. I don't think I'd ever hit an aluminum pan with a hammer and not being familiar with BMW models I just guessed he was talking about a sheet steel pan like on a Chevy. I was also wondering how with that little torque you'd ever distort that pan.

robert wrote:
He is probably thinking of the /2 sheet steel pan not the cast aluminum pan after 1970 models.

More likely a Ford model T sump?