'75 R90/6 charging issues (new to the board)

[gspd]

You don't have to have much electrical knowledge to fix a typical (airhead) charging system.
You just need 4 known good spare parts; regulator, rotor, diode board and a stator.
They are all quite simple to replace.
It could also be a wiring issue, which might require a bit of knowledge or a wiring diagram, but that's quite rare.

When I first started doing electrical repairs everybody was shocked.
but I'm better at it now.

[Airbear]

When I first started doing electrical repairs everybody was shocked.
but I'm better at it now.

Ah, but that's because you are such a bright spark.

Thanks for the advice.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

Well, you have made a good start there, Ken. Good luck with remembering whatever it was you were trying to remember. I was going to write that twice to cover your double post, but that would be silly.

I think you chose the right path Airbear. Simply alluding to what you might have said says it without saying it. If you had actually said it though there would be pitfalls. First, the readers might think it wrong for you to pick on a really nice guy like me. And I'm not sure you're nice enough yourself to get away with it. Secondly some readers might think there's something wrong with the forum (Which happens to be how I think my double post happened) and fear that if they say anything they too will be beset by double-postitus. And thirdly, the readers might think you're just as goofy as I am.

I can only imagine the factors that had to be considered in making the decision you did. It appears to me that you might have been forced to decide between giggle and a snork. To take the high road, as you did, would surely likely elicit a giggle from all but the most surly of readers. But a snork is worth so much more. And if somebody should post that they blew coffee all over their monitor, well, that would be a memory to be cherished for a very long time.

Frankly I'm grateful that it wasn't you who double posted and me who had to decide which way to go.

And that's all I have to say about that.



Ken

[Jean]

gspd said:
"It could also be a wiring issue, which might require a bit of knowledge or a wiring diagram, but that's quite rare."

When you get hold of a bike that's been through a couple of previous owners, a wiring issue is a primary item to address. Doesn't anyone recall Chas45grips and the nightmare he went through with his R90s??
If you cannot get the correct color wire to go from point A to point B when replacing, at least get a set of color-TAPEs and mark the terminal ends of the replacement wire with the correct color!!
A hank or 2 of salvage wire-harness from an audi or VW provides a LOT of properly colored replacement wire, BTW.
Airbear, have you found a schematic yet? At least put some blue tape on the ends of that black wire...

[Jean]

Found this in my electronic junk from way back: It's part of a 17 page collection on Airhead electrical troubleshooting.
The internal jumper could also fail open.
******************************
***NOTE!: There is a peculiarity of the starter relay on the /6 and later models. I think it was done for some sort of electrical disconnect function during production of the motorcycle. The starter relay, under the tank, has been known to get corroded male-female plug-in connections. The peculiarity is that 100% of all electrical energy for the motorcycle (except for the large gauge wire that feeds the starter motor solenoid/starter motor ITSELF) goes through a JUMPER built INSIDE the starter relay. You can loose part, or all, electrical energy for the bike, if there is corrosion at the relay or its socket. Wiggling the relay will return the power. To fix, simply clean the spades, male and female, carefully, and THEN add silicone grease. (The conductive kind, specifically for terminals!!)

[Major Softie]

To fix, simply clean the spades, male and female, carefully, and THEN add silicone grease. (The conductive kind, specifically for terminals!!)

The only error here is that such grease is not "conductive," but "non-conductive." The product is "dielectric grease," and the name means that it is not conductive. This is confusing to many, because users think that it is used to make better contact in an electrical connector. It actually is not. It is only used to prevent corrosion, which maintains better contact. If the grease was conductive, that would allow the current to "short" to other connectors in a multi-connector. That's the reason for making sure it is non-conductive.

[Airbear]

I love the smell of Boxerworks in the morning, as the coffee works its magic.

First there is Ken's invaluable advice re silliness. I have made a fool of myself so many time here. There are traps for young players at every turn. I'll print your post in a large and slightly whacky font and stick it to the back of the door in my toilet as a daily reminder. Thank you so much, Ken.

Then Jean again chimes in with valuable practical advice. Thanks, mate. My wiring harness is tatty, to say the least. There are a couple of mysterious clipped off tails hanging out of the harness under the tank, there are stiff and crunchy wires in places and almost every connection I've pulled off has been dry and full of dirt, or slightly loose. It constantly surprises me that I haven't been stuck somewhere in the last 50,000 kms. The old girl has presented me with so many lessons in mechanics, all at timely intervals in terms of funds and knowledge. I am almost certain that the electrics are the next lesson. Possibly risky to pre-empt her agenda but I’ll try.

Excellent advice re getting an audi or veedub harness. I drove and maintained 7 veedubs over 20 years before I switched to proper japanese cars. I think the local veedub bloke will still remember me even though my appearance has changed since I last gave him money. I'll go and have a chat with him and see if I can get the remains of a harness. I'll show him the following pic, to get his memory working and his grin spreading. He was always kind about letting me scrounge through his pile of chuckouts.



I do have Clymer, Haynes and BMW workshop manuals. Haynes has the coloured schematic and I will scan and laminate whatever is useful.

Ah, dielectric grease. Very timely, thanks Major. I have been reading about it and trying to get some. I went to two auto supply shops and two electronics shops locally and was greeted with “Huh, nope, nothin’ like that here.”. I know I can get some online, so I will do that. I have been using a substance in a spray can called ‘Inox’, which I think has been efficacious.

I was under the impression that dielectric grease must be conductive, too. Thanks for the headsup Major.

This thread is most useful. Thanks all.

[gspd]

When you get hold of a bike that's been through a couple of previous owners, a wiring issue is a primary item to address. Doesn't anyone recall Chas45grips and the nightmare he went through with his R90s??
If you cannot get the correct color wire to go from point A to point B when replacing, at least get a set of color-TAPEs and mark the terminal ends of the replacement wire with the correct color!!

Wow! you'd really hate my bike.
I rewired most of it for better current flow, longer durability, more reliability and easier trouble-shooting.
I've not had to do any repairs on any of the mods so far. Everything works perfectly. And probably will for a looong time.
Example: I have a 3 position, 6 wire switch to toggle from my Omega ignition to my beancan, all the wires are black.
I have a separate isolated harness for my dual horns with easily accessible fuse.
Ditto for flashers, instruments, dash lights, etc.
I know where all the wires go by heart, and I'm pretty sure nobody else could figure it out in less than a week.

This electrickery all started when I was doing (dating?) a cute aircraft electrician.
She saw my stock wiring when I had my tank off and told me it I couldn't fly with wiring like that.
After that StephenB forced me to beef up all my charging/battery wires.
I had no choice.

Have I destroyed my resale value? ...........Yes? ......Good!....I'm glad.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

. . . I'll print your post in a large and slightly whacky font and stick it to the back of the door in my toilet as a daily reminder. Thank you so much, Ken . . .

I'm honored. And that would be the perfect location.



Ken

[Airbear]

. . . I'll print your post in a large and slightly whacky font and stick it to the back of the door in my toilet as a daily reminder. Thank you so much, Ken . . .

I'm honored. And that would be the perfect location.

Ken

Excellent, Ken. Much appreciated.
I will of course include attribution. Your fame will spread, possibly beyond your wildest dreams.