Boxerworks.com

hools100RS wrote:Indian, my pushrod seals were also cracked, but not leaking. A friend suggested that the stainless pushrod tubes that had been installed before I bought the bike, weren't tapped into the head far enough and subsequently put more pressure on the seals when eveything is tightened down, splitting them. Rather than heat and knock in the tubes a smidgen (big risk of damage/disaster!!!), I shaved 1mm off the end of the seal that contacts the tube collar and it's oil tight with no cracks. Food for thought???? Hools.

My stainless tubes are pressed in flush with the cylinder head.

Garnet wrote:Well then the job should cost about 2 hours labor plus the seals, hopefully less.

I spoke with a late 20ish guy with fairly long hair. Claimed to own a couple of the bikes, but I didn't clarify if HE owned them or the shop did. Shudda got a name.

Seth is a good guy and can definitely do the job...but, don't expect it to be two hours...

I didn't see a model/year...but, the "book" says re-sealing the top end (both sides, engine installed) is 2.6 (R60/6) to 3.2 (R100RS) hours. "The book" means less and less as time goes by...the times are based on fairly clean bikes in good condition with no accessories. I quote by the book, but it rarely works out for me.

Also...be careful with the tool that beats on the seals. They work to a point...and at that point, they create problems. I have replaced quite a few pushrod tubes in the past few years because of damage caused by those tools. Yes, they work...but for every bit of good they do, they also cause damage. It's far better and cheaper in the long run to just replace the seals. Keep in mind, the small pushrod tubes are damn near $50 each...the large ones are over $35 each...the aftermarket SS tubes are $33 each. Prices are going up and up and up...those prices have more than doubled in the past five years and will continue to increase...think of that while you're hammering on those seals.