Boxerworks.com

ME 109 wrote:

Kurt in S.A. wrote:IMO, the most critical time is the first 60 seconds of engine start.

Seems to be the thought of the more experienced airhead mechanics. Using no oil on the rings or bore at rebuild is an important part. Just a drop smeared on the skirts.
This needs to be done with a fully primed oil circuit so the engine can be taken to 3000 rpm immediately on start-up without molly coddling the rpm until the oil light goes out.

Sounds harsh but that's that's the best way, apparently.

This is how I did it on my 81 R100. Sealed up fast and didnt burn oil! Of course you have to use the proper rings for the nikasil cylinders.

Just over 100 miles on the new rings, valve guides, and exhaust valves. Starts much easier, idle is steadier at 950-1000 RPM, oil pressure is much more stable rather than up and down, runs strong. Will check the valve clearance and head bolt torque in the morning.

I don't understand why this work should have made the oil pressure stabilize, but the rest certainly makes sense. Maybe the idle was so rough that you could see it in the oil pressure.

I've used the link below for three different engines now (a rebuilt Honda Civic, a 1972 slash/5 with new pistons and rings, and a brand new Kawi 250 Ninja). The guy will never win any awards for website design, but he's right on the money with regard to engine break-in.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

quixotic wrote:I've used the link below for three different engines now (a rebuilt Honda Civic, a 1972 slash/5 with new pistons and rings, and a brand new Kawi 250 Ninja). The guy will never win any awards for website design, but he's right on the money with regard to engine break-in.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

We've been talking about breaking in a re-ring job. This article is talking about breaking in entire new engines.

The rings are probably the cheapest part you are breaking in on a brand new engine. Sacrificing the careful break in of every other part of the engine just to achieve the quickest sealing of the rings makes absolutely no sense to me. There is an enormous difference between breaking in just rings and all the other moving parts of an engine, and anyone (such as the author of the article linked above) who speaks of new engine break in as though the rings are the only thing being broken in is too big an idiot to be listened to about anything.

Major Softie wrote:We've been talking about breaking in a re-ring job. This article is talking about breaking in entire new engines.

I don't read the website that way. In his up-front section on "What's the right way to break-in a new engine?", all he talks about are rings. He doesn't mention bearings, cranks, seals. He just talks rings. Sure, he says new engine, but it sure seems like his focus is on the rings.

Kurt in S.A.

But if is breaking in a new engine, as he says, the rings are not the only thing being broken in - no matter that it's all he talks about.

Oil and filter change - 210 miles after new rings. Fuel milage is better (after one tank) and oil looked dark with no metal in it.

Manfred wrote:Just over 100 miles on the new rings, valve guides, and exhaust valves. Starts much easier, idle is steadier at 950-1000 RPM, oil pressure is much more stable rather than up and down, runs strong. Will check the valve clearance and head bolt torque in the morning.

This comment is for you and others. Checking the clearance is also checking the head bolt torque. If the clearance is correct, you will find the head bolt torque to be the same as you left it.

Checking torque isn't a zero risk procedure. Leave "well enough alone" applies here.

When I adjusted the valves at 100 miles, I checked the head bolt torque. A couple of the bolts were a few ft-lbs light.