Boxerworks.com

SteveD wrote: Shouldn't you just whack it back to horizontal?

Funny you should mention that Steve. It got whacked.
It was the only way to unscrew the relief valve.

When it was bent, the valve would foul on the bearing carrier when unscrewed.
It got a few cold whacks from above with a heavy hammer and length of timber.
I was concerned about fracturing the bearing carrier, or pulling the metal threaded relief valve straight out of the bearing carrier. Heating to bend would have been best I spose with the correct oxy-acet welding tip, but I no longer have it in my shed.
Anyway, neither catastrophe happened and out came the valve.

Were you fast enough on the clutch for it to not throw you down the road when it locked up?

George Ryals wrote:Were you fast enough on the clutch for it to not throw you down the road when it locked up?

Fortunately, the rpm was less than 2000 when the link fell out. I had just changed into 2nd and was only mildly accelerating.
I have considered the implications of this happening at speed (me) or redline (bike)
The only damage I could find was to the front bearing carrier area. Chain, crank sprocket, relief valve, cam chain tensioner. There was no piston to valve contact anywhere!! Well, not from this incident anyway. There were some small marks on the piston crowns from the valves but was more to do with >8000 rpm. These marks were covered in carbon so they were an unrelated incident to the chain breaking.
What I'd like to know is how I could turn the engine over with the starter, and not have the chain grab the cam sprocket and screw my day.
A couple of two second bursts on the starter, and also rotating the rear wheel in fifth with the plugs out. I could hear the chain rattling and assumed that the crank woodruff key had sheared..
I was surprised to see the chain bunched up like that when I pulled the front cover off at home.
Perhaps I'm lucky not to have hit the starter a third time.

Hey Jeff, I've been doing a little googling on regrinding rocker tips and came across this. How have yours stood up? My tips are from the last version of the heads rockers (shimmable)- late model D-port heads. They have a little bit of flat spot wear, a touch of pitting, nothing too bad but would be nice to be able to gently regrind them, as the heads are rebuilt, new valves, etc.

Gidday Hans, I checked the rh side after about 5,000k and all seemed well.
Checking was done by backing the adjusters off and using a mirror from underneath. Quite tight but I was able to get a good look and using a light to highlight the surface.

The rockers need to be mostly full profile to start with. I have seen some rockers with a considerably worn profile which should be tossed for a new one.

I'm tempted to pull my engine down this winter for a peekaboo, so I'll give them all a real good look.

Hi Jeff, thanks for the reply,
I think my tips are pretty much full profile, I posted some photos over in a thread in Adv,
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/u ... h.1149317/

It is not so much wear on the profile with mine that is concerning but rather a line of pitting, which is all that can be felt with a finger nail.

ontic wrote:Hi Jeff, thanks for the reply,
I think my tips are pretty much full profile,

Ha, I was just over on ADV bangin' on about whether the profiles were worn or not.