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I know how to break them in the first instance, before learning how to fix them.

Your ride was not a problem Souljer, near full oil increases the chance of other issues causing the light to come on.
What oil are you using? 20/50 at least hopefully. That's good for 115 F and no oil light.

The flickering light is more an indication of a starved oil circuit. That could be on the pick up side of the oil pump, or the downstream side.

Monitoring is the next step before pulling anything apart.

There are other causes like incorrect pressure sender unit?

I've had a flickering oil light.........................

Be sure that the warning light you're concerned with is your oil light, and not your charging light. If the bike has adequate oil in it per the dipstick, it's a lot more likely that your charging system is complaining about stop and go traffic, rather than the lubrication system.

Hi,

Motorex 15w 50
This was done at my first service after I got the bike. Fortunately the guy wrote the info on the receipt.

Positive it was the oil light.
Above and left-diagonal from the Neutral light (on my instruments).
Also the bike came with the Rider's Manual and it's identified as the Engine Oil Pressure light.

Although things change. The manual also identifies two rocker switches front and center: the rocker switch for hazard warning flashers and the heated grips switch. However on my bike the positions are flipped (right is left now) and there is no hazard warning switch. It's just a dummy button that doesn't move and seems to connect to nothing.

I really hope I never need it, but I really wish I had it.

khittner1 wrote:... likely that your charging system is complaining about stop and go traffic...

We all were! Who wouldn't!

The oil light should be yellow. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check if the wiring is correct to those bulbs; turn ignition on, don't start engine, pull wire off of oil pressure switch below left cylinder/carb, does "oil" light go out?

The R100R and the R100 Mystic had a different instrument and warning light cluster than the same vintage RT and RS bikes where the oil pressure and charging lights often are confused. I don't know that layout myself, so it probably is what your manual is telling you, and you're right to be concerned---activated oil lights aren't a "they all do that" thing. Could be an issue with the sending unit, but you need to find a good airhead wrench to dig into it to determine the cause.

I had oil light come on once due to collapsed/crushed oil filter. I have had the crushed oil filters two or three times, but the light only once. Cheap aftermarket filters with no hinge in the middle. I use hinged filters now and have not seen the problem in awhile.

Hi,

Thanks for the experience with the oil warning light. I think the oil is not correct. The light has only done that again on a few other rides where I think the bike was getting too hot with stop-&-go traffic. I'll put in some better stuff next oil change.

Now I have noticed a new thing.
Before I could start the bike in Neutral or with the clutch pulled in. Went back to watch an video on my channel, just to confirm I've done this. I caught myself stalling the bike and restarting it while the bike was still rolling but just pulling in the clutch. I did not have to shift it into neutral first.
Since about last week (or that is when I noticed it) it has to be in neutral. Just pulling the clutch in and pushing the starter button does nothing.

Why has this changed?
How would you fix this?

Thanks again.

There should be a switch plugged into the clutch perch that is activated by the clutch lever. Make sure it has continuity when the lever is pulled. Looks like this:

Hi,

I found the switch cable but what do you mean by continuity? Electric current? I don't know how to test that.
And what is that cable called? I could find no mention in my Haynes or Clymer but I was probably looking in the wrong place.

I also could not reach the hex section to loosen or tighten the cable. It's way inside the perch housing.


Now this was working fine before so I don't know what changed.
I did notice that the Neutral Switch under the transmission is quite wet with oil. Also checked the oil level and found tht it's dropped a few mms, so that it's a bit below the MAX level. Could this be indicative of the problem?

DAMN - now I got black grease on my keyboard!
I'll be cleaning that up as I wait for more clues.

It's an electrical switch, you check continuity by unplugging the end with the two pins and use a voltmeter connected to those pins to see if it turns on and off when you pull the lever.