Re: Woo Hoo! A Big Project!
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:04 pm
Just enough rain to cancel Moto Friday. Next week, maybe Moto Monday and Moto Friday!
I knew after my shakedown run last Sunday that the carb synch was way off. I could even hear the cylinders fighting with each other a bit as it ran through the range. The bit I ran it before I disassembled it I had it going well and smoothly and I left the idle mixture and speed settings where they were working well on the old motor. Those settings were OK to start with, but the new pistons and rings wanted something different.
Before I'd used the same techniques I use on my dual carb VWs for idle adjustments--basically shut off the mixture screw one side at a time and observe the change in idle, and make adjustments on the other side. Try to remember how many turns of the screw it took to shut things off!
But I kept reading about this ignition shorting method. "Just make a tool out of some old spokes." I saw pictures of these shorting tools on the InterWebs and in BMW Owner's News, usually looking like this:
I'd look at those pics and wonder "Is there a hinge I can't see?" "Howz that work?" I was going to go about this using my VW method, but I did take the time (a LOT of time) to read SnowBum's write-up and I saw the light! It was this bit:
Got a couple that didn't have frozen nipples and cut them a bit shorter mit the big boltcutters. Now for all y'all who were as confused as me about how these things work, HERE ARE SOME PIX TO 'SPLAIN THE PROCEDURE:
Remove spark plug cap and install the ShortMeister:
Put the plug cap on the end of the ShortMeister:
Start the motor up! When the idle settles, get the Big Screwdriver and close the ShortMeister to ground on the cylinder head. Make sure you hand is only touching the plastic! DAMHIK:
So I did all that and found that the right side wanted a lot more fuel and a bit less air and made the relevant adjustments. After that, I held it at 2500 and shorted each side in turn, finding that my static readjustment of the cables a couple days ago wasn't far enough off to be worth fiddling. We'll know more with the next ride later today or tomorrow. I also expect things to change as the rings get comfortable with their bores.
I knew after my shakedown run last Sunday that the carb synch was way off. I could even hear the cylinders fighting with each other a bit as it ran through the range. The bit I ran it before I disassembled it I had it going well and smoothly and I left the idle mixture and speed settings where they were working well on the old motor. Those settings were OK to start with, but the new pistons and rings wanted something different.
Before I'd used the same techniques I use on my dual carb VWs for idle adjustments--basically shut off the mixture screw one side at a time and observe the change in idle, and make adjustments on the other side. Try to remember how many turns of the screw it took to shut things off!
But I kept reading about this ignition shorting method. "Just make a tool out of some old spokes." I saw pictures of these shorting tools on the InterWebs and in BMW Owner's News, usually looking like this:
I'd look at those pics and wonder "Is there a hinge I can't see?" "Howz that work?" I was going to go about this using my VW method, but I did take the time (a LOT of time) to read SnowBum's write-up and I saw the light! It was this bit:
You're spozeta use ONE ON EACH SIDE BETWEEN THE PLUG AND CAP! So I got my bag o' defunct spokes:SnowBum wrote:Here is a way to make a rather neat adaptor, using an old spoke nipple. Spokes have the correct thread, 4 x 0.7 mm. Use that nipple, and the spoke that it fits, and cut the spoke to a couple inches in length or so;...and put a teeny notch on the upper end, and then the spoke will be pretty solid in the spark plug cap, which has a cross-wire to 'grip' the spark plug threads.
Got a couple that didn't have frozen nipples and cut them a bit shorter mit the big boltcutters. Now for all y'all who were as confused as me about how these things work, HERE ARE SOME PIX TO 'SPLAIN THE PROCEDURE:
Remove spark plug cap and install the ShortMeister:
Put the plug cap on the end of the ShortMeister:
Start the motor up! When the idle settles, get the Big Screwdriver and close the ShortMeister to ground on the cylinder head. Make sure you hand is only touching the plastic! DAMHIK:
So I did all that and found that the right side wanted a lot more fuel and a bit less air and made the relevant adjustments. After that, I held it at 2500 and shorted each side in turn, finding that my static readjustment of the cables a couple days ago wasn't far enough off to be worth fiddling. We'll know more with the next ride later today or tomorrow. I also expect things to change as the rings get comfortable with their bores.