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I'd consider pulling the flange, welding up the hole and retapping it.

Flatwins wrote:I'd consider pulling the flange, welding up the hole and retapping it.

With the proper process, why not.

Flatwins wrote:I'd consider pulling the flange, welding up the hole and retapping it.

A good solution !

ME 109 wrote:With the proper process, why not.

Without "proper process", nothing is going to work !
Even as some "processes" will be more involved than others ...

Heli-coils suck – bad ! Ultimately, they break into bits ...
Or, at least, this has been my (repeated) experience.
IMO, an insert is always a better option if there is room to use one –
However, clearance may be an issue in the output flange.

I have used inserts in both alloy and steel with good success and no failures.
I have never had an insert "come out" – never.
ME109 might say: "With the proper process, why not."
and I will add, that as to insert installation, "proper process" is key !

The one advantage of an insert used in aluminum (vs in steel)
will be that the steel threads of the insert do not pull out as easily
as the original aluminum threads will,
and that the aluminum threads holding the insert will not be repeatedly stressed.
This makes the insert particularly attractive for fill and drain plugs.

Granted, the loss of aluminum threads will most often be the result
of ham-fisted wrenches who have no concept of torque
and who will assume that "tighter" is an appropriate method
to compensate for a trashed squash ring
or a technique used instead of equally torqued fasteners ...

In fact, the "tighter = better" theory might very well
be the reason for lost threads in flange screws as well, eh ?
And esp. since most will not bother with the offset adapter
needed to access and torque the flange screws properly.

vanzen@rockerboxer.com wrote:And esp. since most will not bother with the offset adapter
needed to access and torque the flange screws properly.

Gonna use mine this week

The output flange is not easy to machine. Tapping the holes for inserts could be a problem,the material seems to be similar to the trans. shafts. Just drilling out the threads is tough.

Why not helicoil it back to the stock bolt size?

enigmaT120 wrote:Why not helicoil it back to the stock bolt size?

Look at vanzen's post, just 3 up, or so...

robtg wrote:The output flange is not easy to machine. Tapping the holes for inserts could be a problem,the material seems to be similar to the trans. shafts. Just drilling out the threads is tough.

A file will barely remove material, so a cobalt drill or two may get the threads out. But after that, it sounds to me like a broken tap waiting to happen.
Most people who work on transmissions should have several used ones laying around, I know I do and would not mess around fixing one. The point I'm trying to make is, they are not hard to come by or expensive.

Mine is free to Brad as soon as I get it loose. I'll even pay for postage!

I've always wanted to open up a transmission, and pulling the flange has been the only thing stopping me from exploring the internals of the one I have. I'm interested to see the damage done, but I can't imagine much is left besides the case.