Boxerworks.com

Ken, I installed a 12mm MC on my R90/6 to the stock single ATE and got significantly improved breaking and feel. I am very happy with this set up. I used an R65 MC and an R80ST single line to the ATE. I was also able to use my stock two throttle cables and eliminate the need for the splitter...Jeff

I have an 11mm with twin ATEs , good solid feel, minimal movement and plenty of feel and power.

Moto Guzzi used a 11 mm M/C with twin 48 mm twin piston callipers for years without any problems, so they should be OK with two single piston callipers a good bit smaller.

But as Ken suspected there is a trick - the different levers BMW have fitted over the years have different length noses, the bit that bears on the end of the piston, and with the wrong one lever travel will be excessive.

If you are a incorrigible bodger / cheapskate it is possible to drill and tap a hole in the end of the nose and fit a dome head screw, then file the head to suit. Mine has lasted for 10 years with no problems.
But the vent hole in the M/C must be kept clear, or the brake will lock on as the fluid warms up, so a little trial and error is required to get the correct length.

In the interest of science, I carried out a series of hard stops from about 70-80 mph, the bike is fully laden (I'm now in France on a 6 week trip) and am happy to report no problems with increasing lever travel with a 13/38 dual brake setup. Now in the dordogne, be home in a week.

Charles

my 2c..
after you do all this, get some Ferodo platinum pads!! you can also bead blast the disks!

macdaddy wrote:my 2c..
after you do all this, get some Ferodo platinum pads!! you can also bead blast the disks!

I'm interested in what you are saying macdaddy. Those Ferodo platinum pads, what are they good for?

I'm actually not being facetious here. What I want most out of my brakes is one-time maximum stopping power. By that I mean a panic stop. In the limit I want to be able to lock up my front wheel on a fully loaded bike, traveling at, say, 75mph, on a clean, dry, grippy surface like pretty new concrete. Being able to carve corners, accelerating and braking heavily, with great fade resistance are nice, but not top priorities. Not hitting what I'm braking not to hit is my top priority, with a nod toward disk and pad life as also being fairly high on my priorities.

As for bead blasting the disks, why do I want to do that other than to clean them? If it's for de-glazing them, using a random orbit sander with medium-fine aluminum oxide sandpaper seems to be working pretty well for me.


Ken

vintage brake says it better than I..


"FERODO PLATINUM

FERODO's all new organic compound for high performance road use, developed from WSB racing compound CP911, combines leading edge technology gained from Ferodo's world racing program with the demands of the modern motorcyclist. This new formulation improves initial brake response with the highest coefficient friction level available in an organic road material, developed to be kind to both stainless steel and cast iron rotors. Using a unique vulcanization process, superior bonding of the friction material to a specially prepared backplate ensure consistent braking performance and longer pad life. Additionally, the backplates are alloy coated to eliminate corrosion and piston sticking. Low brake drag, excellent modulation and brilliant performance in both wet and dry conditions are all hallmarks of the new PLATINUM pads."

Back in the day a buddy and I tried a bunch of different pads, for track days and racing with the stock calipers, this is what we found that worked.These were the best "braking"pads and they never heat popped on the surface,or the backing plate. Then we found we could still put the slightly used pads on our street bikes with great results.
By the way we used 11mm masters. Sure your sander is fine, I think I could get better results with the bead blaster, but that's just me?

Vintage Brake wrote:
"FERODO PLATINUM

FERODO's all new organic compound for high performance road use, developed from WSB racing compound CP911, combines leading edge technology gained from Ferodo's world racing program with the demands of the modern motorcyclist. This new formulation improves initial brake response with the highest coefficient friction level available in an organic road material, developed to be kind to both stainless steel and cast iron rotors. Using a unique vulcanization process, superior bonding of the friction material to a specially prepared backplate ensure consistent braking performance and longer pad life. Additionally, the backplates are alloy coated to eliminate corrosion and piston sticking. Low brake drag, excellent modulation and brilliant performance in both wet and dry conditions are all hallmarks of the new PLATINUM pads."

Well, they sound well worth considering, even if only 1/5 of what Vintage Brake says is true. Unfortunately I tend to get a tad mean spirited when I encounter advertising hyperbole, which is how I'm labeling Vintage Brake's words. It doesn't mean it's not true, but some supportive facts or even believable anecdotes from people who might be credible would go a long way toward piquing my interest.

For example, I'd like to know a little more about that unique vulcanization process. Do other, lesser, brake pad manufacturers use some old archaeic process, or is it that they just use--snif--glue? And those PLATINUM pads, I guess they don't have platinum in them. I guess they're so damn good that only the richness/goodness of platinum is sufficient to use in a description.

Just to show how fair/impartial my attitude is, I'm really getting in to the backplates that don't corrode and anything that might stop my caliper pistons from sticking is a good thing in my book. And I'm also a fan of excellent modulation and brilliant performance. And to do that in both wet and dry conditions makes my nipples tingle.



I'm not quarreling with you macdaddy, honest injun, just venting a tad. And I really am interested in Ferodo's new compound.


Ken

How does a Ferodo brake pad stop the caliper piston from sticking?

Ken in Oklahoma wrote: Well, they sound well worth considering, even if only 1/5 of what Vintage Brake says is true. Unfortunately I tend to get a tad mean spirited when I encounter advertising hyperbole, which is how I'm labeling Vintage Brake's words. It doesn't mean it's not true, but some supportive facts or even believable anecdotes from people who might be credible would go a long way toward piquing my interest.

Hyperbole is, by every definition I can find, exaggeration - not meant to be taken literally. I believe that would, in fact, mean that it is not true. I don't find any claims there that, as far as I know, fit that definition.

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:And those PLATINUM pads, I guess they don't have platinum in them. I guess they're so damn good that only the richness/goodness of platinum is sufficient to use in a description.
Ken

If they have, or have had, a "silver" line, and a "gold" line, then it would be perfectly reasonable for their "top-of-the-line" organic pads to be their "platinum" line. If none of their other pads had been designated by precious metals, then your criticism would have more weight, but it would still be fairly petty as advertising "puffery" goes.

Funnyy enough, I'm using ferodo pads on both my ate R90/6 and the brembo equipped 1070. They seem to work without any issues and do not delaminate like the OEM brembo pads did back in the day.

Really can't remember if they are 'platinum' or not but they work.