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High idle can also be due to carbs being set up without the bike being taken for a good warm up ride first.

Yes, of course it can be carb adjustment. First one must have the advance mechanism working perfectly and then, only then go after the carb adjustments.

Figured out what was causing the idle to be so high. I set the throttle cables too tight. Which makes sense that the idle would jump when I was backing the bike out of the garage. I originally thought it was the slope that caused it, but it was the turning of the wheel that pulled the cables tighter. I adjusted the cables properly and the idle dropped back down. I reset the idle mixture and throttle idle screws (how the manual says to do) after a ride to warm everything up. Bike idles and runs smooth now. Felt good to be back on the road! Had a guy in an Audi R8 pace next to me for a while on the highway. When I looked over at him he gave me a big thumbs up

Next on the list is an oil change. Noticed the oil looked about ready to change. My odometer doesn't work, so I am just going by the color of the oil instead of the mileage for now. This will be the first oil change for me on this bike and will then begin a normal changing interval. Not sure what oil or filter to use though. So continues the learning

Thanks again for all the tips and info. Definitely glad I stumbled across this forum!

you can use fill ups to track oil changes if small tank change oil after 20 fill ups

big tank after 14 fill ups

this method puts oil about 2,400 miles(I DO 2 OIL CHANGES THEN CHANGE FILTER AFTER THE 2ND OIL CHANGE INSPECT EVERY FILTER)

you can figuure about 20% wasted on start ups, please ride 25 miles with every start up... ride at least 10 miles for adjustment needs

A good rebuild will need little if done right, at 60k and after then you find whats right or not