Boxerworks.com

Gidday,

I dropped the oil again, it was clean looking but more so just a precautionary measure so I sleep well
Valves checked and adjusted to 20 exhaust 15 inlet and then the head bolts all re torqued back up to specs.
After the 100 km run I could now let it idle for a short time and while set the idle speed to 1000rpm and adjust the mixture screw more precisely, is now starting and running very nicely and with no smoke

Will again test the spark on the left side to see if it is still weaker than the right side as this is what I raised on here a few weeks back, due to the weak left spark on the bike, just curious as I would like to know and learn more about the static timing and the timing of the bike, these were set and inspected a few months back and it was running nicely
At that point i decided to tackle the replacement of the push rod tube seals, then the gudgeon pin circlip shit itself after the reassembly, then the new barrels, pistons and rings being installed which brings me up to this point of bedding in the rings
I know understand the valves, there workings and can set and adjust them quickly and easily.

Timing and points etc, still a little unsure!! more reading, more practice....

You should have re-torqued the heads before adjusting the valves...

grant81rs wrote: Will again test the spark on the left side to see if it is still weaker than the right side

If there is a difference in the spark left and right, I think it has to be in either the plug wire or the plug itself as there is really only one electrical system in there. If you can make the wires reach, you can swap left and right without affecting anything.

Gidday,

Hmm buggar about the wrong order of checking.. I will ride it another 100km or so and recheck them again..

Will be in touch in regards to the spark issue if it still exists, I will run a few tests.

bbelk wrote:
If there is a difference in the spark left and right, I think it has to be in either the plug wire or the plug itself as there is really only one electrical system in there. If you can make the wires reach, you can swap left and right without affecting anything.

Uhm: coils. In fact, if you switch plugs and the problem remains on the same side, and then switch wires and the problem remains on the same side, then it is almost certainly the coil.

Major Softie wrote:

bbelk wrote:
If there is a difference in the spark left and right, I think it has to be in either the plug wire or the plug itself as there is really only one electrical system in there. If you can make the wires reach, you can swap left and right without affecting anything.

Uhm: coils. In fact, if you switch plugs and the problem remains on the same side, and then switch wires and the problem remains on the same side, then it is almost certainly the coil.

You are correct. My R90 has two coils. My R65, the one I worked on most recently, has been converted to a single coil with dual outputs. It is not stock.

bbelk wrote:

Major Softie wrote:

bbelk wrote:
If there is a difference in the spark left and right, I think it has to be in either the plug wire or the plug itself as there is really only one electrical system in there. If you can make the wires reach, you can swap left and right without affecting anything.

Uhm: coils. In fact, if you switch plugs and the problem remains on the same side, and then switch wires and the problem remains on the same side, then it is almost certainly the coil.

You are correct. My R90 has two coils. My R65, the one I worked on most recently, has been converted to a single coil with dual outputs. It is not stock.

I think even dual output coils are still 2 coils and just one can be weak, but I wouldn't bet my lunch on it.

You are paying some dues here. It will turn out well!

grant81rs wrote:Hmm buggar about the wrong order of checking.. I will ride it another 100km or so and recheck them again..

Ya silly duffa!

Re torque them, then reset valves, before you ride again. Do it cold if possible.
Then, when on that ride, the carbs can be further tweaked if required.

Grant, the order of torqueing the head and then adjusting the valves is very important. When I adjusted my valves first and then torqued the head, well all my valve clearance disappeared. I was shocked how much the clearances moved! Some went to ZERO