Boxerworks.com

I know you're all on the edge of your seats, wondering "How did that shift linkage work out??"

Well, I'll tell you, it's pretty darn slick. I took my first decent ride in the mountains and it was smooth as all get out. My old linkage was the early version, with a 5mm bent wire running plain against the shift and transmission lever. The 6mm rod and the greased ball pivots have added solidity and smoothness to the operation.

In other news, tires are very important. The old rear tire had significant flattening and for the last few rides last year cornering was a bit spooky. I was experiencing what I would describe as a high frequency weave coming from the back end. A nice round tire makes all the difference.

Another difference is in the foot position--I can be on the balls of both feet now and not have it feel unnatural (or in surfer palance 'ungoofy').

I posted the BMW into shed adventure on the 'shed' thread. Here's the plan for this winter's work in that shed:

1. To get PC on the footpegs now that last winter's mod has proved itself.

2. PC the OG seat pan so I can learn how to sculpt a seat. I kinda want to make something Giuliari-ish.

3. Deal with this:



I'd had a wee off a couple years ago and it appears to have broken the seal at the base gasket. The other side is dry and beautiful:



4. Check for leaks behind the flywheel--the seal and the oil pump cover.

5. Check the clutch for oil and for loss of spring tension. It's slipped a couple times under heavy load--going up a 6% grade in 5th at 75+ it zinged from 4500 rpm to 6000 rpm and stayed there until I backed off and downshifted.

SteveD wrote:I've read a couple of riders from the UK say that Rub 'n Buff prevents corrosion and they drive on salty laden roads.
I wonder how a test ..one side Rub 'n Buff, one side your usual prep..would go? Do you still use the GSPD method?

I've got a Yamaha 850 project that I've used Rub 'n' Buff on and it does seem to hold up. That's just a year of damp storage after cleaning up the castings and applying the stuff, though.

Springtime is here! I'm a few weeks behind--today is usually the start to riding season. I got the bike to here a couple weeks ago:



And then couldn't find my clutch disassembly bolts and my flywheel holder. I only last used them four years ago. A couple trips to the hardware store and a few $$ outta my pocket and we're all good. Even better--I was able to get longer bolts this time and now the clutch is fully disengaged before the bolts run out of thread.

Today the flywheel came off and now I'm wondering where the oil came from. No evidence on the flywheel:



And here's how things looked behind it:



I'm replacing the flywheel seal anyway, but it does not appear to be the source of the clutch cavity oiling. I'm unsure of the oil pump cover also, but it will get a new o-ring. Taking a sniff of the grease left behind does give me a modest gear oil smell, so an input shaft seal is now also on the docket. Parts to be ordered tonight.

Could a leaky breather hose be the source? Looks like something coming from the upper right...

Got the exhaust repolished today. Before:



After:



Footpegs are back from powdercoat and I'm watching FedEx tracking my clutch parts. It could go back together this weekend.

A few questions, please?

1. Which shade of Rub 'n Buff did you use on the Yamaha cases. Is it a match for the BMW?

2. What did you use to clean up the exhaust parts?

The Yamaha cases got the 'silver' Rub 'n' Buff. I haven't had a heat cycle yet.

The exhaust was renewed with the buffer, a stitched cotton buff, and 'grey' compound. Took about 1 1/2 hours.

Today the carbs and airbox went back on. I could run it by getting the exhaust, footpegs, and tank back on, but I have some electrical work planned as well. The critical part arrived today. More to come.

"Pewter" is likely to look better on Airhead cases, but it depends on what you're looking for.

I haven't used the stuff on cases, but I've used it on props in the theatre, and I think the pewter is a lot closer to Airhead aluminum case color.