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Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 9:29 pm
by ChuckyShamrok
Quick update so you now I ain't blowing you off. I got a working test light now! WOO, but I haven't touched the bike at all. Life has gotten in the way. You know how Job Searching, chasing girls and it being BLOODY COLD OUT is.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:32 pm
by ChuckyShamrok
Ok, Update time! Set the points using the test light, got them to open at the S mark, still won't fire. With the ignition on and cranking the bike over, I have pretty good suction on the exhaust pipes, like, will leave a ring on my hand.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:30 am
by sterob
Sounds like the valve timing is out.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:02 am
by Ken in Oklahoma
ChuckyShamrok wrote:Ok, Update time! Set the points using the test light, got them to open at the S mark, still won't fire. With the ignition on and cranking the bike over, I have pretty good suction on the exhaust pipes, like, will leave a ring on my hand.
Ignition on, but did you lay the plugs on top of the head to see if they're firing? If so then squirt a bit of gas into one cylinder, put the plug back in, and see if it fires for a few revolutions.


Ken

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:38 am
by jagarra
I did pick up one thing in all the conversation. The plug wires should have a 1K ohm resistive cap not a 5K ohm one.
One thing I have done to hold the advance in the advanced position when I was adjusting the points was to make a washer to hold that portion in the advanced position and then used the center bolt to keep all the parts in that position. Still don't see what is accomplished with that info, I have always set the indicator to the fire position and adjusted the points to just start to open statically.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:33 am
by Ken in Oklahoma
jagarra wrote:I did pick up one thing in all the conversation. The plug wires should have a 1K ohm resistive cap not a 5K ohm one.
It doesn't matter. The purpose of 1K or 5K resistive caps or resistive spark plug wire or resistor plugs is to be kind to your neighbor, radio interference wise. Those of us who are old enough to have ridden in a car with the radio on an AM station will remember the popping that happened when getting close to some cars. That popping was radio frequency interference caused by the spark jumping the plug gap. That spark releases energy across a broad frequency spectrum (including the AM radio band). FM radio, by virtue of frequency modulation is unaffected. AM, or amplitude modulated radios can and do receive the interference.


Ken

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 1:12 pm
by enigmaT120
Ken in Oklahoma wrote:
jagarra wrote:I did pick up one thing in all the conversation. The plug wires should have a 1K ohm resistive cap not a 5K ohm one.
It doesn't matter. The purpose of 1K or 5K resistive caps or resistive spark plug wire or resistor plugs is to be kind to your neighbor, radio interference wise. Those of us who are old enough to have ridden in a car with the radio on an AM station will remember the popping that happened when getting close to some cars. That popping was radio frequency interference caused by the spark jumping the plug gap. That spark releases energy across a broad frequency spectrum (including the AM radio band). FM radio, by virtue of frequency modulation is unaffected. AM, or amplitude modulated radios can and do receive the interference.


Ken
I wish we could do that to cell reception.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:46 pm
by chasbmw
Ken in Oklahoma wrote:
jagarra wrote:I did pick up one thing in all the conversation. The plug wires should have a 1K ohm resistive cap not a 5K ohm one.
It doesn't matter. The purpose of 1K or 5K resistive caps or resistive spark plug wire or resistor plugs is to be kind to your neighbor, radio interference wise. Those of us who are old enough to have ridden in a car with the radio on an AM station will remember the popping that happened when getting close to some cars. That popping was radio frequency interference caused by the spark jumping the plug gap. That spark releases energy across a broad frequency spectrum (including the AM radio band). FM radio, by virtue of frequency modulation is unaffected. AM, or amplitude modulated radios can and do receive the interference.


Ken
Ken, if your bike had a digital electronic ignition, then you should fit 5K ohm resistance or there is a chance that your electronics might get blown. Being nice to neighbors is a good thing so I would fit 1K OMH caps on a points equipped bike.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:11 pm
by pat76r90
ChuckyShamrok wrote: With the ignition on and cranking the bike over, I have pretty good suction on the exhaust pipes,
I'm not sure the exhaust pipe is the best way to check engine timing,I would pull a carb off and put your hand over the intake while cranking, it should create a fairly large suction... about enough to suck a small cat off the street. If there is none, or it creates pressure, you've got a basic engine timing problem, or tight valve, something basic.

Re: New Guy with a Project bike.

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:26 pm
by Ken in Oklahoma
chasbmw wrote: Ken, if your bike had a digital electronic ignition, then you should fit 5K ohm resistance or there is a chance that your electronics might get blown. Being nice to neighbors is a good thing so I would fit 1K OMH caps on a points equipped bike.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. What I'm trying to say is that an airhead will run just fine with 0K, 1K, or 5K resistance whether wires, caps or plugs. Personally I want to be kind to my neighbors so I run with 5K resistance. But I don't have a digital electronic ignition nor does any stock ignition airhead. Am I missing something?

I can imagine that if I were to install a digital electronic ignition, the design might require me to fit 1K caps. And I presume that the instructions that came with the ignition would point that out. Is that your point, reminding me (and others) that some aftermarket ignitions are different? I'm not trying to be cute here. Just to understand the concern.

Ken