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Bamboo812 wrote:You should have re-torqued the heads before adjusting the valves...

No, not right. Always check the valves for change. If you have a change, then very carefully check the torque. Of course for the first check after assembly, then I would check the torque, and then adjust the valves, but that is only the first time.

Checking the valve lash is like checking blood pressure, it is an indicator. You wouldn't take your blood pressure medicine first and then later on check your pressure.

Few know what valves are about. Few know how to properly set them. Few know how to check them. Go to http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/valve/index.htm

Duane Ausherman wrote: Few know what valves are about. Few know how to properly set them. Few know how to check them. Go to http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/valve/index.htm

Duane,
Was it your experience in artificial hearts that made you decide to become a BMW dealer?

Rob wrote:

Duane Ausherman wrote: Few know what valves are about. Few know how to properly set them. Few know how to check them. Go to http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/valve/index.htm

Duane,
Was it your experience in artificial hearts that made you decide to become a BMW dealer?

Well, they are all about the valves.....

jagarra wrote:Grant, the order of torqueing the head and then adjusting the valves is very important. When I adjusted my valves first and then torqued the head, well all my valve clearance disappeared. I was shocked how much the clearances moved! Some went to ZERO

Same experience here. A couple heat cycles and the gasket will have crushed a bit more, the result being reduced valve clearance.

Gidday,

Many thanks, I will check them again before I ride or start it.

Valves to 20 exhaust and 15 inlet and then head torque check to 40Nm

I usually torque then to 24 ft/lbs or about 35 N/m.

Rob wrote:

Duane Ausherman wrote: Few know what valves are about. Few know how to properly set them. Few know how to check them. Go to http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/valve/index.htm

Duane,
Was it your experience in artificial hearts that made you decide to become a BMW dealer?

It was because those two passions occurred at different times. I loved both jobs.

The things that I learned about research, such as never "assume" and document every single step, not matter how trivial, gave me a great grounding for all of my later life.

grant81rs wrote:... I will check them again before I ride or start it.

edit:in order of...
1. Head torque check to 40Nm then
2. Valves to 20 exhaust and 15 inlet

Corrected. Because you've had the top end apart, the heads need to be re torqued, just once after some run in period. A dealer would ask you to come back after 600-1000kms for the re torque. They would then readjust the valves.

So, if re torquing, the valves are adjusted after the re torque, not before.

If doing normal maintenance, always check the valves first. If ok, leave them. No need to adjust them and no need to re torque. In that instance, even if they need some minor adjustment, there's usually no need to re torque them.

Bamboo812 wrote:I usually torque then to 24 ft/lbs or about 35 N/m.

Initially that's what Grant did Timmo...@ 25ft.lbs. We were too conservative in taking care with the old block and were concerned re: pulling a stud. The right side immediately leaked oil at the top, near the front stud. Grant then changed sealant, changed application technique and volume, then torqued to 27-28ft.lbs/40Nm. Tight base, no leak.

"changed sealant, changed application technique and volume" I got the 25 ft/lb number from Snowbum, section 11: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm