Boxerworks.com

Rob wrote:... and I have a tech coming to the house on Sat.
I hope I have a bad modem or there is something flaky going on on the pole out back.

Update: Comcast/Xfinity tech came out and found a funky cover on a connection on the pole out back. He replaced everything and I have not dropped a connection since.

Back to tubeless snowflakes.

'Fess up, Rob---you were running that cover out on the pole tubeless . . .

khittner1 wrote:'Fess up, Rob---you were running that cover out on the pole tubeless . . .

And you see what happened.

vanzen wrote:Rob, doing well!!
That said, both Morris and Lester marketed cast wheels appropriate for tubeless tires.
They are rare as hen's teeth these days. If you find Morris wheels available, buy them regardless!
Do not use tubeless tires on those old snowflakes or you will go directly to hell, do not pass go...
When that happens, we will sit back, have a beer, and tell stories about countless miles ridden without incident or tubes.

[img][IMG]http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah6 ... zlsbnj.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][IMG]http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah6 ... rilkfg.jpg[/img][/img]
As you can see, These are stamped TL, and are DOT certified, but do not have the safety ridge. They were designed to be tubeless, but don't meet today's standard. I believe, the article I posted previously https://m.facebook.com/Sunnbobb/posts/442715689158630, makes it clear that Lester intended for all their wheels to be used tubeless. They are tough as nails, and lighter than wire rims when used as intended. I guess I'll go to Hell as well. I'm sure that's where the best riding is anyway.

Rob wrote: ↑Tue Sep 08, 2015 4:01 am I wonder how vanzen is doing these days?

Where was that epic thread re: tube v tubeless? Is it retrievable from somewhere?

Knowing all the dangers ahead of time... I elected to go tubeless on my 1979 rear snowflake simply becasue when fully loaded it's simply much easier to plug the rear wheel in place. The front wheel on the same bike a has a tube.

But, I hedge my bet by watching the air pressures real-time with a Bluetooth tire monitor.

Real-time motorcycle tire monitor link

Wobbly wrote: ↑Thu Jul 12, 2018 1:37 pm I elected to go tubeless on my 1979 rear snowflake simply becasue when fully loaded it's simply much easier to plug the rear wheel in place. ...

But, I hedge my bet by watching the air pressures real-time with a Bluetooth tire monitor.

Thanks. Does it lose air? I have a newly powderoated snowflake that I want to try tubeless.

SteveD wrote: ↑Fri Jul 13, 2018 4:40 amThanks. Does it lose air? I have a newly powderoated snowflake that I want to try tubeless.

This applies only to PRE-SINGLE SIDED cast wheels...

When I bought the bike in 2014-15 the PO was already running tubeless front and rear. He had coated the interior of the rim with some type of gooey sealant to stop the porosity issue. I have since seen similar tire products for cast car wheels, but don't remember any specific names. Both my wheels (tube type and tubeless) loose about 2-4psi per month. So 'no', they don't leak despite me adding 30,000+ miles.

I'm currently running tubeless Bridgestone BT-45 "Battlax" tires F&R, both at 33-34psi. These were mounted with a generous amount of pro tire lubricant (1 gal/$6) to make the bead pop-out (seat) easier, but I think it also adds to the sealing efficiency of the bead.

If your rim interior was also powder coated, I think your air holding issues are taken care of. Otherwise you might look for a porosity sealer of some description. A last ditch attempt might be enamel paint for aluminum, which you brush on (simply to avoid hours of tedious masking). Obviously, you'll also need a bolt-on, mag wheel, tire stem, and I would highly suggest anything except straight. Maybe these stems?

The BIG thing you'll notice is that tubeless tires fit much tighter onto the snowflakes. Thus the need for pro tire lube. Even with that Michelins, Bridgestones, Avons, and Heidenaus sometimes take in excess of 60psi to fully pop out. This has left me looking for a lathe set up so I can turn my rim smooth on the interior and get rid of the "as cast" surface. Needless to say, I've also had to buy special tools to break the bead loose when it came time to remove the tire.

Hope this story helps in some way.

SteveD wrote: ↑Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:31 am I have a valve like the one you linked to, but it is straight. What's wrong with straight other than air hose access?

The stem comes out so close to one of the main spokes that it's difficult to fill with air. A flat spot had to be ground on my air chuck just to get it in there. A 90° stem would be soooo much easier.

The front is hard with straight stems; the rear is nearly impossible.