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For a while after collapsing my oil filter I wanted to check it was still OK and discovered you can do it easily enough in 5 minutes without draining the oil. Put the bike on the side stand with the wheels on a couple of 1" planks so it leans more than usual. You can then remove the filter cover for the loss of only a few cc's of oil and nothing much disturbed as the metal shim stays put and the 2000$ O ring remains in place on the cover. I didn't remove the filter just shone a small torch down the centre tube to check all was well.

barndeadr80 wrote:OK. Plumbing 101 is done. 0-200 Grade A gauge is in place and expecting the worst I started it up. Same everything. 100 miles or so on the oil. It read about 95psi just above idle, before it warmed up it would go to 150psi at 3500rpm. Rode it a mile or so and got it way too hot to put a hand on a valve cover. It dropped to 40psi at idle and would go to 95psi at 5500rpm.
Is this bad? It doesn't seem terrible at all considering what I have read.
I think it is just torturing me. Making me stressed out as to whether it will eat a filter or not. Except for eating a filter, I am thinking Mr A has the right idea. Ride the thing.
I still want to stick a 10mm speed wrench in the oil filter cannister and drop the hammer but I will resist the urge.

Your oil pressure is high, especially when cold. 150psi at 3500....where is it at at 5000-6000rpm? Does it continue to climb? The pressure relief (in the timing chest) should be reducing pressure after about 75-90psi. Your hot pressure is a little high at 95, but not bad.

Sounds OK to me

Would those pressure figures be achievable if the bypass was fully open?
(I know I've gone on and on about the bypass)

I can look in there and see if the current filter is squashed with very few miles and being babied. I actually want there to be a known problem with a resolution. I didn't crank it up past 3500rpm cold. It was high 50'sF with 20-50 in it. Rode it again with the gauge still screwed in. Didn't notice it get over 90-100psi wound up hot but the gauge is screwed into the block and is hard to focus on looking down between the carb and cylinder with cars trying to kill me. Still reading 45-50psi at 1100rpm hot.
I don't really mind to crack the thing open and look inside. It would be really nice to find a problem and fix it so as not to have to worry about it.
Sure was nice to ride the thing again. We are both too old to be sitting still waiting for the reaper man.

I can see how beating on it when cold COULD MAYBE crush the filter, but you never do that, right?
I'm curious to find out what the definitive cause is (was?)

BTW - The WORST thing to do is to let your bike idle to warm up.
Put it in gear and ride it away ASAP, just keep it under 3500rpm for a few miles.

I'm plowing into the front in search of the pressure relief valve hoping to ease my mind. In an ironic twist, my fear of exhaust nut removal was foolish. Broke them loose and they turned off by hand...after 25 years of being on there. The rotor is being a pain. The book says to rap the bolt (removal tool) smartly. I figured while I was deciding exactly how smartly to smack the thing I'd ask if there is a better method. Also, I'd rather not fiddle with the bean can if I don't have to. Can it simply be left in place if nothing gets rotated while apart and I am very careful putting the thing back together?
*edit* or update or something
Ah! I rapped the rotor removal tool/bolt smartly and stupidly was looking the other way when the rotor went "pop" and jumped off onto the concrete floor. No damage and lesson learned.

It's better to remove the beancan; something will undoubtedly move.
Mark its position if you don't have a timing light.
Be careful, the beancan prongs only fit into the cam one way, they are off-centered.

I'll pull the can off the cover before I clean it up to put it back on. Amazing the amount of dust and dirt that works down from the top and falls in the wrong places when that cover comes off. The cover did finally come off after ditching the crash bar clamps that were in the way.
Am I correct in thinking the pressure relief valve is screwed in as the slots in the end would indicate? This would be the part called a "hollow bolt". The one with the cover stud in the way if it does screw out. Whatever it is it is coming out tomorrow and parts will be on the way to put this old thing back together. A $1 spring will be one of them whether it needs one or not.

Hmmmm. Probably needed to take the front end parts apart anyhow, and "clean house"!