Lithium
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:32 pm
From the internet:
What Makes Lithium Powersports Batteries So Damn Good
Ok, so we know both kinds of batteries will get your vehicle started reliably – so why spend any more money on a lithium?
They last longer. Lead-acid batteries can last 500-1000 cycles in optimal conditions, but in real world use, 100-300 cycles is a lot more typical. Lithium-iron batteries will go 2000 cycles no problem, and can go up to 5000 when treated right. In other words, you’ll go through several lead-acids in the time it takes to wear out one lithium-iron – meaning lithium-iron batteries truly do pay for themselves.
They hold a charge better. Lithium-iron batteries have a remarkably low self-discharge rate, losing only about 10% of their charge a year. Compare that to lead-acids, which lose about 1% of their charge a day.
They crank harder and longer. Lead acid batteries are considered “dead” at between 50-70% charge – once they hit that mark, they’re useless. Lithium-iron batteries discharge full power until they are completely discharged, so they give fast, powerful cranks right up until they’re dead.
They are super light. If you’re a performance rider and trying to save weight, you simply need to have one. For example, an OEM battery from a newer sport bike weighs about 8 pounds, but its lithium replacement will weigh only about 1.5-2 pounds – an impressive weight savings of 75-80%.
They are much safer. Not only will they not catch fire, but the “dry cell” construction of lithium-iron batteries eliminates the use of poisonous lead and harmful sulfuric acid. They can be mounted in any direction, and will never leak acid.
Much better warranties. Most lithium-iron batteries have impressive warranties, with 3 years being the norm. Most lead-acid batteries have shorter warranties of a year or less.
So yes, they’re better batteries, plain and simple.
What Are The Drawbacks?
While lithum-iron batteries are superior batteries and the best choice for most riders, they may not be the ideal battery for everyone. Here are a few drawbacks that may make a lead-acid better for you and your situation.
Obviously, there is the cost. Lithium-iron batteries cost $75-300, compared to lead-acids, which cost around $50-100. If you care more about getting the cheapest than the best, then don’t even think about a lithium and go straight for lead-acids.
In addition, they should be used with a special charger, which of course, is an added cost. Lithium-iron batteries can be charged with standard chargers, but they won’t be calibrated to the same voltage requirements (lead-acids charge to around 12.8 volts, while lithium-irons need 13-14.) The best way to protect your investment is to use a lithium-battery specific charger.
In addition, parasitic draw from accessories (like alarms) is harder on them than it is on lead-acids. If you have a bunch of gadgets draining power on your bike, stick to lead-acid batteries.
Finally, if you ride in cold weather, a lithium-iron battery will work, but it may annoy you to have to go through the warming up procedure. For our customers who ride ADV and touring bikes logging high miles in warm weather, we suggest a sealed AGM battery instead, which is like lead-acid technology on steroids, and super reliable.
What Makes Lithium Powersports Batteries So Damn Good
Ok, so we know both kinds of batteries will get your vehicle started reliably – so why spend any more money on a lithium?
They last longer. Lead-acid batteries can last 500-1000 cycles in optimal conditions, but in real world use, 100-300 cycles is a lot more typical. Lithium-iron batteries will go 2000 cycles no problem, and can go up to 5000 when treated right. In other words, you’ll go through several lead-acids in the time it takes to wear out one lithium-iron – meaning lithium-iron batteries truly do pay for themselves.
They hold a charge better. Lithium-iron batteries have a remarkably low self-discharge rate, losing only about 10% of their charge a year. Compare that to lead-acids, which lose about 1% of their charge a day.
They crank harder and longer. Lead acid batteries are considered “dead” at between 50-70% charge – once they hit that mark, they’re useless. Lithium-iron batteries discharge full power until they are completely discharged, so they give fast, powerful cranks right up until they’re dead.
They are super light. If you’re a performance rider and trying to save weight, you simply need to have one. For example, an OEM battery from a newer sport bike weighs about 8 pounds, but its lithium replacement will weigh only about 1.5-2 pounds – an impressive weight savings of 75-80%.
They are much safer. Not only will they not catch fire, but the “dry cell” construction of lithium-iron batteries eliminates the use of poisonous lead and harmful sulfuric acid. They can be mounted in any direction, and will never leak acid.
Much better warranties. Most lithium-iron batteries have impressive warranties, with 3 years being the norm. Most lead-acid batteries have shorter warranties of a year or less.
So yes, they’re better batteries, plain and simple.
What Are The Drawbacks?
While lithum-iron batteries are superior batteries and the best choice for most riders, they may not be the ideal battery for everyone. Here are a few drawbacks that may make a lead-acid better for you and your situation.
Obviously, there is the cost. Lithium-iron batteries cost $75-300, compared to lead-acids, which cost around $50-100. If you care more about getting the cheapest than the best, then don’t even think about a lithium and go straight for lead-acids.
In addition, they should be used with a special charger, which of course, is an added cost. Lithium-iron batteries can be charged with standard chargers, but they won’t be calibrated to the same voltage requirements (lead-acids charge to around 12.8 volts, while lithium-irons need 13-14.) The best way to protect your investment is to use a lithium-battery specific charger.
In addition, parasitic draw from accessories (like alarms) is harder on them than it is on lead-acids. If you have a bunch of gadgets draining power on your bike, stick to lead-acid batteries.
Finally, if you ride in cold weather, a lithium-iron battery will work, but it may annoy you to have to go through the warming up procedure. For our customers who ride ADV and touring bikes logging high miles in warm weather, we suggest a sealed AGM battery instead, which is like lead-acid technology on steroids, and super reliable.