Boxerworks.com

R100S 1984

Got the new tires on:
After getting slowed down by a leak from the rear brake actuator cam shaft. I finally got it done.
I went back to standard size tires. The oversized ones were a pain to get out as they were old and hard.
Over and over again, I keep learning that OEM is best!

I had shimmed (top hat shim) the wheel over to make room for clearance between the rear tire and swing arm.
I almost shimmed it back over, as I have the original shim, but decided to keep it shimmed. Saved me a wheel bearing seal that I just installed when I lubed my input shaft.

You can see in the pic that how much clearance there is now.
Looks OK to me. But please comment.

On first ride, the bike does feel more nimble. I wasn't pushing too hard, as they are new tires.
Installed new model Bridgestone BT 46's, designed for old bikes, but with modern technology, along with with Bridgestone tubes.

I installed counteract balancing beads, as I had no access to a balance stand. For this I will surely go to Hell. "The mechanic from Hell" does not approve!

Didn't notice a problem up to 140 KPH so far. But I will be running a lot faster than that, after I finish scuffing in the rubber.

Question:

You can see the tire pressures on my swing arm pic, (30psi 33psi) I've always run them much higher.
I've set them to the OEM pressures.
Any thoughts?

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 6:47 pm Question:
You can see the tire pressures on my swing arm pic, (30psi 33psi) I've always run them much higher.
I've set them to the OEM pressures.
Any thoughts?

Stick to the recommended pressures.
If you're carrying an extra heavy load, or often cruising at over 100mph, increase it 2 or 3 pounds in the rear.
My 1975 r90s had a OE sticker in the fairing that said to add 3 psi for prolonged cruising at over 100mph.
They stopped using those stickers when political correctness took over.

My suggestion would be to run the rear a little higher, like 36psi.

Kurt

Kurt in S.A. wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:24 pm My suggestion would be to run the rear a little higher, like 36psi.
Kurt

Why?

SteveD wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 11:11 pm Recommended pressures?
Recommended in 1984?
Recommended in 2022 by the tyre manufacturer?

Fwiw, I use 36/38psi....and since I stopped using Michelin M48's. That'd be late 1980's.

Well the tire manufacturers don't specify for individual bikes, instead deferring to the bike manufacturer.

viewtopic.php?t=7057&hilit=tyre+pressures&start=10

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 2:58 am

SteveD wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 11:11 pm Recommended pressures?
Recommended in 1984?
Recommended in 2022 by the tyre manufacturer?

Fwiw, I use 36/38psi....and since I stopped using Michelin M48's. That'd be late 1980's.

Well the tire manufacturers don't specify for individual bikes, instead deferring to the bike manufacturer.

I doubt the 1984 recommendations have too much significance in 2022 on modern tyres. Bottom line...use a variety of settings, get what works best and watch the wear pattern over the life of the tyre. That'll give a clue to correct pressures for your specific use.

Whilst I use 36/38 that suits me. Might not suit you.

gspd wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:25 pm

Kurt in S.A. wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:24 pm My suggestion would be to run the rear a little higher, like 36psi.
Kurt

Why?

Different tire construction since 1984. Too little pressure, the sidewalls get more heated. Too much pressure, handling and ride is compromised. 36 is well below the cold inflation pressure on the sidewall. Best of all, it works for me!

Kurt

Kurt in S.A. wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 6:27 am Different tire construction since 1984. Too little pressure, the sidewalls get more heated. Too much pressure, handling and ride is compromised. 36 is well below the cold inflation pressure on the sidewall. Best of all, it works for me!

Makes sense. To be completely honest, I don't really notice any difference between running at 32 psi vs. 36 psi in the rear, although I try to stick closer to the higher number in real hot weather.
Different tire construction since 1984 ??? hmmmm...I wonder if the Metzeler Tourance tires I get now are identical to the ones I was getting in the 90's? They look the same, wear the same, handle the same, but now they say made in China, made in Brazil, and who knows where else. In the 90's, they all said made in Germany.

Note to ZM.
Your rear mudflap should be inside the fender.
Looks better.

I remember when I was using the old Contis that you could push onto the rims with your hands...tube-type beads. The air in your tube were the "sidewalls". Those days are long gone with the tubeless tires/beads.

Kurt