Boxerworks.com

Hello
here I am, again from my garage restoration of my R100,
this time I'm asking about the misallignment that I'm having after mounting a new used ebay lower yoke plate,
and after replaced new steer bearings. As you can see the steering axle isn't in line with the top yoke hole,
but I also have the fork sleeves already mounted and if I grab the fork from the sleeves and lift it a bit a can notice that the misallignment visibly reduce.

In your experence culd be normal flexion of the lower yoke/axle or not?

I have already checked the tolerance of steering bearings and, at least moving vigorously by hand, there is no clearance radially nor axially..

in your last photo, the center circle is off-center because the center nut isn't installed.

RPGR90s wrote: ↑Wed Apr 12, 2023 9:00 am in your last photo, the center circle is off-center because the center nut isn't installed.

I would tend to agree. I would also suggest that central hole ln the top yoke appears very badly worn. This is something that happens if the nut is left loose for any length of time. The hole should be a very close fit around the bottom rebate on the domed nut. If it's not, no matter how you tighten the nut, the yoke will move under braking causing a 'clunk' and ever increasing wear with the nut working loose regularly.

The only real remedy is to replace the yoke and the nut although I have seen a temporary fix achieved by introducing a thin ring of steel shim metal between the nut and the yoke to take up the slack.

Sorry that's probably not what you wanted to hear right now but...

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2023 5:41 am ... The hole should be a very close fit around the bottom rebate on the domed nut. If it's not, no matter how you tighten the nut, the yoke will move under braking causing a 'clunk' and ever increasing wear with the nut working loose regularly...

A piece of alfoil can do that shimming job...I used it to good effect on a previous bike. If it is worn, it's a cheap temporary fix and helps confirm the wear if any clunk is subsequently gone.

SteveD wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2023 7:12 am

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2023 5:41 am ... The hole should be a very close fit around the bottom rebate on the domed nut. If it's not, no matter how you tighten the nut, the yoke will move under braking causing a 'clunk' and ever increasing wear with the nut working loose regularly...

A piece of alfoil can do that shimming job...I used it to good effect on a previous bike. If it is worn, it's a cheap temporary fix and helps confirm the wear if any clunk is subsequently gone.

Agreed... but temporary really is the word to use.

Rob

I will measure the center hole and report the situation, maybe the scratched paint can make everything appear worse than reality.
At this point, with hundreds of euros spent, one more plate does not change much (sigh, sohb!)

Just offer up the dome nut to the yoke... if it can move laterally, both are crackered...

Rob