Boxerworks.com

so, last year at this time I began experiencing a carb leak after replacing an original w/ a new, viton(?) tipped version.

This thing just leaks, period, regardless of float level set. It does stop the flow when manipulated by hand, but overnight line is empty & bowl overfull. I've used the original float as well as two new floats, same deal.

I noticed there is a separate part # up to 80, I believe, that appears to have a different type tip; patient however, is an '84.

Why, other than seat issues, would a newer tip be problematic?
BTW, there were NO leaks prior & seat "looks", w/ magnifier, fine.

Any input?

I would call Bing, they have helped me over the phone before.
But I am sure someone else has a better answer.

Don't blame me if this ruins your carb, but.....
I've been told that one can use a cloth-covered philips head screwdriver of suitable size to gently polish the needle seat. I gather it works well while riding, and only leaks slowly when parked, indicating a slight failure of the needle-seat seal.

Mike

Eggs-ackly, moike!

earlier today I found myself thinking about "adjusting" it w/ a 5 lb sledge...

cloth, as in crocus? where is that found/purchased?

The needle seats are cheap to buy from Bing.
Replacing the seats is a relatively simple operation.
No more fuel leaks, ime anyway.

ME, m'lord-
I was given to understand that seat replacement could prove quite costly if any mistakes were made , therefore I did not aggressively pursue that option earlier.

Actually, I thought it was problem-solved until I began riding a few weeks ago. Truly vexing.

So, I just "lapped" the seat w/ GOJO hand cleaner & a q-tip...we'll see.

My frustration is that A) it didn't leak at all over the winter B) I really should be working on my Toro because judging from the amount of rain that's been falling, the grass will be 8" tall soon; odd in that the last of our snow just finally disappeared...

Seats are easily removed by........ tap the seat with an 8mm x.1 thread tap.
ideally, start with a tapered tap and then follow with a bottoming tap.
You will feel when the tap contacts the bottom of the seat. Stop at that point
It wouldn't matter if you stopped 1-2 mm from the bottom.

Make a sliding hammer with your choice of a 12" long (approx) 8mm bolt, 8mm allthread, anything with an 8mm bolt welded to it etc etc.
This 'bolt' needs a 'head' to stop a sliding weight from coming off.



The idea is to thread the 'bolt' into the carby seat with the 'sliding weight' in position and heat up the carb body immediately around the seat.
I used a small propane torch for this.

Finish heating and immediately use the slide hammer to pull the seat out.
It will take 2-3 wacks for the seat to pop out.

I had my carb in a vice (with soft jaws ) to perform the operation.

How much heat? Not a lot.
The small propane torch would take some time to damage or distort the carb, so don't be too concerned. I'll post a pic of the torch.

To be continued

Bought from an electronics store. Quite cheap and great for soldering wires.

Hey, that's a great how-to; thanks for putting that up!