Boxerworks.com

My trusty 84 R-65 was target for a pick-up truck while parked this evening. Other than some cylinderhead scratches that should brush/buff out the main insult appears to be to the side stand. On first impression, I thought that just the foot of the stand was bent, but after making efforts to straighten the foot, it beame clear that the entire stand arm is
probably hopelessly bent.

I am hoping that BMW still services the part. If not, are any aftermarket replacements available?

Now for the biggest problem. When I had the cycle in the shop for major service a couple of years ago, the mechanic
told me that the left exhaust pipe would not come loose from the cylinder. It looks to me that the exhaust has to come down to get to the side stand arm bolt. What now? Should I expect a torch to persuade the exhaust pipe to come loose?


Anyone experienced a similar situation?

thanks

Replacement sidestands are readily available from used parts dealers, like Matt - the fellow that runs this place.

Or you may want to consider a Brown or something like it. People that have them seem to love them. You just have to be responsible for retracting it yourself.

The header should come out easily.
You may need to cut the clamping nuts off so as not to mess up the threads on the heads.
I usually tap the header on the inside of the curve with a small plastic hammer.
You have the added difficulty of two crossover pipes to deal with.

This is a great place for BMW airhead support.

For specific R65 information, you might want to try http://www.bmwr65.org/

If a mechanic couldn't remove the exhaust header, that sounds bad. Maybe Rob has figured it out and it's just the finned exhaust nut. Cutting that with a dye grinder seems like a good idea if you can't remove it with the proper wrench.

I just finished dealing with some modifications on my 83 R100 Cafe Racer's side stand. Something that may tell you why it is hard to work with is that the stand is hardened. In other words, I think it's heat treated. It ain't no softie.Used side stands shouldn't cost much. And if Matt (Boxerworks site owner) has one for you, it will feel good to buy it from him. I've done some business with him and he's top notch.

Chuey

Rob and Chuey, thanks for your prompt response.

I am about 120 miles away from the closest BMW Dealership, but my community is blessed with a very experienced BMW mechanic and owner. I've been a closet follower of this forum, but the cycle has been so disgustingly dependable, I've never had any intelligent questions to ask.

Glad to hear that there might be sources for a salvage or aftermarket stand.

I'll take the bike to the mechanic tomorrow and bless him with the problem.

It is possible that the tabs on the frame were bent. There are two, and the end of the stand slides between them.
Check that out.

R65john wrote: I'll take the bike to the mechanic tomorrow and bless him with the problem.

You, or he, have 2 possible problems.
1. The star nut is stuck. If it catches as it turns, it'll be buggering the threads. Best to cut them off, as the thread repair will be much more expensive that the replacement nuts.
2. The header might be stuck. Heat and a judicious whack somewhere carefully to avoid dents. Something sprayed in there the night before to loosen it up might help. Disconnect everything else from the headers before proceeding. Don't rush it, it'll come out when it's ready!

And welcome aboard to!

It is possible that the tabs on the frame were bent. There are two, and the end of the stand slides between them.
Check that out.

Good call! The shop did a visual inspection and the problem indeed is in the area of the pin/bushing that attaches to the frame. The stand arm is noticably bent in that area. When hit, the cycle was resting on the side stand. It was struck on the right cylinder hard enough to make it overturn onto the left side. From a standpoint of physics, the stand took most of the weight of the cycle, plus some fulcrum leverage.

The cycle shop called a BMW dealership for prices on OEM parts. They don't come cheap! I am sure when I convey the bad news to the responsible driver, he will decide to notify his insurer, rather than handle the matter himself. The shop has to leave labor costs open due to the contingencies of trying to remove the exhaust header. I'll tell his insurer that I would accept a used or non-OEM side stand, but I'll wager anyone that the insurance company will not take the effort to locate equivlant parts. The shop indicated they would order a new exhaust "star nut" to have on hand just in case it is needed. Only about $19.

BTW. Cosmetically at least, the bike fared better than the truck. Minor scratches to the valve covers, but a good size scratch/crease on the cab back panel of the truck.

You will probably need two exhaust nuts, as you will probably need (and want) to pull the headers from both sides.

Some folks like to break the exhaust nuts free occasionally, to keep them supple.
High-temp anti-seize is your friend here. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... cant_b.htm


Tell the mech. to be careful if he does cut them off, not to cut into the threads!
If you have an experienced airhead mechanic, you will (hopefully) have no problems.

R65john wrote: BTW. Cosmetically at least, the bike fared better than the truck. Minor scratches to the valve covers, but a good size scratch/crease on the cab back panel of the truck.

Welcome aboard, John. Nice to hear that the bike won, in terms of damage. Let that be a lesson to any other pickups out there contemplating a tussle with a fine motorcycle.

I use a substance in a tube called "Non-metallic Anti-seize Compound" on the exhaust nut threads (spark plugs too), after cleaning them with a soft brass wire brush. They almost spin off. I tighten them only a bit tighter than hand tight. **

** Secret bit, just between you and me - the tightening and loosening part of the operation involves a light tap with a hammer on the end an old blunt screwdriver dug into one of the many old notches that previous owners have thoughtfully provided in the star nuts. Please don't tell anyone here.

On those exhaust/head joints it is often good to use such as PB Blaster on them repeatedly and rotate them both ways while getting them off to keep material from building up in the threads, and to help flush that which is. Then, when apart, to run a sharp awl (or proper thread scraper tool) around in both parts to get stuck material out of the bottom of the threads.

(A small wire brush much the shape of a toothbrush is good for prep and final cleaning in conjunction with the pointy tool.)