Boxerworks.com

Seems like one of the weak spots of the '77 R100/7 is the center stand. I think I have to have a bead welded to the stand where it contacts the frame in the deployed position. With all the bolts tight and new bushings in, the stand still moves too far forward so both wheels are touching the ground when deployed. The I am thinking of is a 3 or 4mm bead on the stand as it seems to have worn down some there. Is it possible to get a weld hard enough to stand up to the wear? So I thought I'd tap the well of knowledge to see if anyone else has run into this situation?

Also, and this may be a dumb idea but, has anyone ever used needle bearings in place of the fat bushing in the center stand? (I did this at the clutch lever, drill out the lever and insert a roller bearing in place of the wimpy nylon insert there). Any benefit of a roller bearing in there?

Oops, my last line was intended to read, is there any benefit to having needle bearings in the center stand pivot bolt assembly instead of the fat bushing?

Welding the stops has been done many times.

Its kind of a grimy area for needle bearings, tho.

The centerstand on my '79 never showed any signs of deformation at the stops, but the bottom of the feet were flat, so I had stainless steel welded on and the leading edge ground to shape.

so welding steel frame with stainless weld can be done? At least the center stand can be removed to be welded. Like yours, the feet on my stand need filling in and the PO broke the tang off so that's another thing. I hadn't thought about the grime in that spot when I played with the idea of needle bearings instead of bushing. Thanks for the ideas!

I'm only assuming it is SS, since it hasn't rusted in 5 years.

Yes, remove the stand before having it welded.

If you fix the stand and use it correctly, it will last a very long time. Nearly everyone mistreated them and guess what, they failed.

Duane Ausherman wrote:If you fix the stand and use it correctly, it will last a very long time. Nearly everyone mistreated them and guess what, they failed.

Having replaced three badly worn/broken stands on past and current airheads I've become obsessive about "correct" use. The manual is actually very clear on this:



Typical misuse occurs whenever someone ties to use the flimsy BMW item as you would any other bike's stand, namely sitting on the bike and rocking it off the stand and putting the bike back on the stand by standing on the tang.

twist wrote:so welding steel frame with stainless weld can be done?

My stand has long stainless wear strips approx. 20mm wide welded on to the curved section of the legs then blended in with an angle grinder so you can hardly tell it from stock without very close inspection. It's ideal, doesn't rust where the paint wears of and I'm expecting it to last at least another 30 years. There's no problem welding stainless to mild steel just use stainless welding rods or wire. Not a great picture of the welded strips side on but you get the idea it can be done neatly. The top of the stand tips were were worn so they have been built up with weld too. The laminated construction of the stand tips can't help with durability so I think a weld repair makes them better than new.

If the stand goes too far over centre Twist, make sure you put some weld on the pivot area before altering the legs, then you'll see if they need alteration too, when in the correct position.
ME109 has a picture of what looked to me like the definitive stand-weld ...

Sunbeem.