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I recently acquired a 2004 R1150RTP. I do not know when the oil was changed last, and would like to do this myself. Can any of you recommend the type and an online ordering resource for oil and a filter kit? Also, is there a specialized filter and/or torque wrench you recommend? Thanks.

Hi Bill.

I would definitely use the factory filter, so, if you don't have a dealer nearby, any of the factory dealerships that ship will work. Even if they don't have a web presence, you may find that your closest dealership will ship to you faster than someone with a big internet presence who is further away. I've dealt with both A&S BMW (Sacramento) and Sierra BMW (Reno) successfully in the past, both at their locations and over the web. I'm especially fond of Sierra BMW, as they are as close to a "Mom and Pop" dealership as you can get these days.

For oil, it's heavy, so shipping cost is really going to hurt you. Then there's the question of "what oil?" (this is a topic of greatly heated debate on any motorcycle site). If you want to run dedicated motorcycle oil, I would find any local motorcycle shop. For regular automotive motor oil, ti's available almost anywhere. The BMW branded oil (made by Spectro) is actually a very popular choice, but not worth the trouble (IMO) if you have to have it shipped to you.

For a torque wrench, my personal taste is to go Craftsman, as I've found them to be the cheapest tool that I can trust. Harbor Freight has very inexpensive torque wrenches, but I do not trust their quality control for something as critical as a torque wrench. Mac or Snap-On will sell you a far better tool, but it will cost you - a LOT.

If you meant to ask if you need a torque wrench for the oil filter, then: no. It's a simple spin on oil filter, but it's tucked up in there so that it's hard to get out without and end-cap filter wrench. They sell them at all the automotive stores, just take the filter in and see which cap fits it. The steel ones fit into the space better. I have a plastic one and I had to grind the edge of it down a little to get it to fit in the hole.

Oops. Hit "Quote" when I meant "Edit."

Bill - - To add to what the major said, you are going to need the correct crush washer for the drain plug. The OEM filter may or may not come with one. You should use a new crush washer every time you re-install this drain plug as well as every time you re-install the fill and drain plugs on the transmission and final drive. You are installing steel plugs into aluminum housings so it's critical that you torque all of these plugs to the correct values. If you don't have these values, just ask. I can vouch for the Craftsman torque wrench and would not be without one when servicing one of these bikes. Regarding engine and gear oils, take a look at the Amsoil website. Their synthetics are way cheaper than BMW brand, especially as a Preferred Customer, even after you pay for the shipping. That's all I'll say about oils for fear of being flamed as an oil thread instigator.

CVA-42 wrote:Regarding engine and gear oils, take a look at the Amsoil website. Their synthetics are way cheaper than BMW brand, especially as a Preferred Customer, even after you pay for the shipping. That's all I'll say about oils for fear of being flamed as an oil thread instigator.

TOO LATE!

Luckily for you, the oilhead forum gets little attention.


Every dealer I've gone to automatically asks if you want a crush washer when you buy an oil filter - just one of the advantages of dealing with a dealer - but that probably wouldn't happen if you are ordering online, so it's important that you remember yourself. I find it is easier to tighten crush washered plugs without a torque wrench, as you can just turn it a measured part of a turn after getting it finger tight. Still, not a bad idea to have the correct tool.

I want to use a conventional engine oil, versus one branded for motorcycles (like for my airhead), would automotive 10w-40 full synthetic work?

And let's say a fellow procures a craftsman torque wrench- what should it be set to for the drain plug ands filter respectively?

The engine oil drain plug on the 1150RT is tightened to 32 Newton meters or 24 ft. lb. The oil filter requires no torqing with a wrench. Pre-fill it with oil, smear a light oil film on the rubber gasket, screw it on until the gasket makes contact with the housing, and then tighten an additional half turn or whatever the instructions on the box tell you to do. I think it's just a half turn. When you take the old filter off check to make sure that the rubber gasket came with it and is not still stuck to the housing. Personally, I wouldn't use automotive oil. Others may feel differently.