Boxerworks.com

Hi, i have a 1980 R100RS and eventually would like to convert to electronic ignition . I understand my bike will currently have the bean can points set up.


Question:= Can the below, complete set up, be EASILY fitted to my bike or would i be better off buying an aftermarket add on ignition unit. If so, which one is best?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271043473105? ... 26_rdc%3D1


Thanks Darryl

(I used to sell Electronic Ignitions.)

Add a Dyna Booster to your current setup and you have the best of all worlds: reliable points ignition, strong ignition pulse, added life to the points (25,00mls+) and easy servicability on the road.

I plan on doing the opposite conversion (1982 electronic to 1980 points) in about 12mos and this is what I found: you may need a different main wiring harness as well as engine harness because of the addtional connectors you need to attach the bean can and the ignition module to. Not sure whether your bike has the brackets to mount the ignition amplifier under the tank. You could get stuck so check your frame mounting points before you buy hardware.

So, no, I don't think this is an easy conversion. This might not even be a complete list of issues, I hope other chime in with their experience.

Stephen

Thanks Stephen, i had a feeling that this BMW elec ign would not be a simple plug and play so will see what i can find aftermarket wise.

Darryl

Boyer sell a few systems to suit points in a can, and the basic system doesnt cost much more than GBP 80- from Motobins.It will work with your existing coil, the hall sensor in a can may not.

Their latest system, the Micro power is also available and comes complete with a high power miniature coil, and it probably costs less than the hall sensor system and a decent matching coil.

I have had a Boyer microdigital on my /7 for well over ten years, and a micro power on my twin plug G/S for three.
They have been fit and forget items, and they made a noticeable improvement to performance too - the curve on the twin plug version is excellent - well at least it is compared to retarding the stock unit 2/3 degrees.

But then they were fitted because I wasn't happy with the way the existing system was working so that was to be expected - if you are happy with the way your existing system works just follow Stephens advice and fit the booster.

Many thanks Roy. That sounds like good advice. Out of the 2 Boyer systems mentioned which one would YOU go for for my RS where the cost is not the deciding factor.

Cheers Darryl

Darryl

If you did fit the electronic bean can to get the best from it you would ideally also need the appropriate 6V coils or a dual output 12v coil.

I fitted an ignition booster several years back to my points in a can. It's been 100% reliable and provides the peace of mind that I can revert back to points at the side of the road in a few minutes. Opinions seem to vary as to whether a points booster gives a better spark. As you would be using the same coils there should only be the same energy available. One variable though is the speed of switching because faster switching increases the induced voltage in the coil. So if the power transistor in a points booster switches faster than points then that may improve the spark. It's subjective of course but I believe I did get a stronger spark at cranking revs. I built mine from a kit but there are others available. Only drawback is that you have to check and adjust the points gap ccasionally due to wear on the heel. It's no big deal I have some NOS BMW points that will hopefully last a very long time with this setup.

Thanks Barry, i am now convinced that i need to go down the same route as yourself and leave me with the additional back up facility of reverting to points. Nearly all my mileage nowadays is long distance continental touring so that aspect is a BIG plus for me.

Darryl

http://www.gremlinracetech.com/product/BBMP

Fitting this system to my 1000 cc twin plug R80 G/S transformed the bike, but as the wrench who had twin plugged it for the PO had fitted a unmatched pair of Jap twin lead coils and just knocked back the ignition timing a couple of degrees almost anything had to be an improvement!

Reliability has just not been an issue, either with this unit or the Microdigital on my non bean can /7.

Darryl

I would seriously consider "Ignition trigger unit with electronic advance ( 2 valve R 1981 on ) | ELA44087" from motorworks if you are doing a fair mileage + you can carry your old beancan as a backup for peace of mind. 30,000 miles so far & no adjustment or problems.

In both the above & the BMW option you mentioned you'll also need the electronic ignition coils & find somewhere for the ICU too live, I ended up with mine under the r/h side panel.

I tried the points & booster option in the past which worked fine but as has been mentioned you'll still need too check the timing etc every 5000 miles + lube the mechanical advance.

I've gone off the boyer units recently as I've had to take a couple off recently due to slight misfires etc.

If fail safe is important a crank mounted system such as the Silent-Hektik or sachse would be worth looking at as you can leave the points beancan in situ.

My 90/6 has the Sachse ignition unit as a primary ignition with a Boyer as aback up.

The sachse is very easy to set up, using a Led to set the ignition at TDC. The ignition map as seen on the bike seems to accord with the ignition graphs. There are 9 different ignition maps, so should suit single and dual plug bikes. It is crank mounted and the box of electronic bits is mounted outside the engine which is good for cooling. Sachse use a light trigger for crank mounted ignition rather than a hall sensor claiming that hall sensors could be upset by magnetic fields from the alternator.

The only caveat is that after fitting you need to ensure that there is enough clearance between the outer timing cover and the trigger, with my bike the outer case needed to be relieved a bit.

I think their are some photos on my photobucket account, same user name as here, R90/6 album