Boxerworks.com

I have a problem. 1983 R100 with Bings sat too long and the carbs leak gasoline onto the ground if I turn on the petcocks.

I know you do something having to do with taking off the float bowls but I don't remember what. I tapped on them with a screw driver handle because I think I remember that would sometimes loosen the offending part. That did not do the trick.

I fear this may be such a simple idea that it's not even addressed here but I don't know what to do.

Chuey

It depends on the state of the needles Chuey.
Pull the float bowls, lift the floats up and down a couple of times to make sure the needles are not stuck somehow.
Put the bowls back on again and let the fuel flow again and see what happens.
If they still leak, pull the bowls off and see if you can pull the pin that the float pivots on. That will allow you to remove the needle and check condition. It may just be that the needles have sat dry for too long and have perished.

If you can't get the pin out while the carbs are on the bike, remove the carbs and drive the pins out with a small nail etc.

as I put my BMW to sleep I'll put some mistory oil in the tank an carbs pull the battery deflat tires an such in case they find a cure FOR ME, I'll oil the top end and put pistons at top I THINK 6 MONTH OF NON USE THIS IS WORTH IT AND GOOD SUGGESTION

What Jeff said. You can hone the float needle seat using an orange stick, from your bride's manicure set, sharpened like a pencil with a dab of grinding paste on the tip.

Or a dowel.

Note to Bride of Chuey: I only suggest, I never compel.

Chuey-

didn't search for the post but I've had a similar problem since my float bowl fell off while riding a few years ago, the needle was forever lost.

The new needles have a viton(?) tip.

Mine will shut the flow off when I manually lift the float, and initially float height measures correct.

Overnight, however, the bowl is dripping.

I have tried the "hone" a few times to no avail.

It may be time to replace the seat, for both us.

I have the link somewhere where the inside of it is threaded so it can be pulled without heat, flame ,etc.

I had a leaking carb on the left side. I agree with most things said her. I would use a Q Tip and brasso to clean the needle seat and a pipe(Smoking Pipe) cleander to clean the upper part of the seat. Replace the needle with a new one. Lifting the float may sut off the gas flow but lifting it by had puts more presser on the neddle that the float would.Be sure when you remove the float pin that you drive from the small end of the pin. One end is larger than the other so the tight fit holds the pin in place. To check the fuel leval in the float bowel remove the gas line fron the carb and catch the fuel in the line in something.If you remove the line at the T you will get too much fuel in the bowel. There should be close to 27 mm fuel mesured from the deep part of the bowel or 1/2 in from the top of the bowel. I would (I have) install and in line filter on each side. I have had an over flow a couple of time sense i did all this. I pulled the fuel line at the carb, or at the T and blew the neddle seat out with compressed air in a can from Staples that is used to blow trash from your keyboard. I have the article that tell how to remove the neddle seat without heat. If you want it E Mail me off post and I will E Mail it to you. My carbs are the 40 mm found on an 83 R100 RT.

jackethridge@hotmail.com

Chuey, you will probably find some really nasty stuff in the bowls when you remove them.
So taking the carbs off and cleaning is in order as some of the tiny orifices are most likely clogged, too.
BE WARNED, the pin goes ONE WAY. (At least on mine, it does) Examine it carefully; one end is knurled and the other end is the one you drift from. If you use the drift from the knurled end, the pin won't fit tightly anymore and will tend to fall out when you are messing with the carbs and turning them about with the bowl off.
Some pins used to have a hairspring wire to keep them from falling out when you didn't want...I think that feature is not with us anymore.

Funny how my knowledge is scattered with regard to engine stuff. The knurled end vs the other one is, for my skills, very easy and something I saw the first time I rebuilt some of my carbs. How they actually work, is still something that is not intuitive. I'm getting more and more of it as I go along but haven't really understood the finer points of carbs of ignition timing. Too many parts in carbs to the degree that I don't really understand them and ignition is that invisible stuff and timing, which tries to enter my understanding but there must be a blockage in there somewhere.

There wasn't anything nasty in the float bowls. I took them off and jiggled the floats and rapped on the carbs with a screw driver handle. I guess I have to go into that dealie that the floats act upon, (needle and seat?) right?

Chuey

Chey, If the carb just started leaking don't mess with the floats. Don't even think of replacing the neddle seat at this point. Verry seldom are seats replaced. It is not simple job. Try what has been sugested here and I think your carb leak will be solved.

If you wash your bike, drop the float bowls and empty out the water
If you ride in heavy rain """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
If you don't ride your bike in the winter """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""petrol

Etc etc