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Have a Parabellum windscreen for the 82 RS I thought I'd like to use in the cooler weather but, its about 2 " higher than what I like (guy who gave it to me was 6'3"...I'm 6' but shrinking in my old age...


I've had some success with using a fine tooth metal blade in a variable speed jig saw but not always..I've smucked a few efforts...so was wondering about using a dremel with cut off disc instead. Trouble with windscreen is the curvature to cut long but guess if I used the jig saw technique would be on "outside " of curve.

Not sure the material in Parabellum sheilds i.e. acrylic, etc but don't know if that makes a difference.

Any other techniques to this down other than ones I'm thinking about?

No snow yet and its still +10C..!

I'm must be bored dinking around with such a mundane task....Yep, I am...I hate November

Thought I'd throw in this one..the snowshoes are awaiting..

I used a 4" angle grinder with one of those very thin cutting discs. It does melt the cut edge a little, so bit by bit is the way. Then I dressed it up with a file.
Use a felt tip pen or similar to mark your cut.

I'm dreaming of a white Christmas...............like hell, it will prolly be 40c.

I reduced the size of a windscreen by using a Dremel with a fiber-reinforced cut-off wheel.

After marking the cut line, I used some 1/4" wide 3M Fine Line tape -available at body shop supply stores- to mark the final trim position. Then got after it with the Dremel.

150 grit sandpaper, used with a hard sanding block, brought the screen to its final shape and size. While using the relatively coarse 150 grit,try to keep the edge perpendicular to the screen's surface.

Edges can then be smoothed using progressively finer 3M Wet-Dri sand paper used wet. Starting with 400 grit, I took the edges down to 1200 grit, then used a plastic polish from Meguirar's to get a nice sheen. A little round-over on the edge is OK but don't get carried away.

I suggest asking the owner, Charlie, of Parabellum. He was the Vetter design person and very friendly.

I have cut many by using tape on both sides and a fine tooth blade in the sabre saw. File and sandpaper the edges.

I do it just as Duane decribed.
I keep the jigsaw speed low so as not to melt the plastic. If it melts, it can stick to the blade and everything starts to bounce. When that happens it can cause a crack.

Just like Dougie says: tape protecting both sides, very slow setting on variable speed jigsaw - sharp new blade. This can do a fantastic job requiring a minimum of cleaning up with a file if your saw goes slow enough and you are patient enough.

Thanks everyone for the replies...

Just heard from Parabellum. They recommend either dremel w/ cutoff wheel or jig saw with finest metal tooth blade...going slow to as to not melt plastic (sic dougie) although the problem with jigsaw they noted was to keep windscreen scure while cutting. Suggested laying screen on a couple of pillows to keep it secure...can't wait till I ask the wife for a couple pillows for the garage...thinks I live out there anyways! (Its heated..mmmm)

So, will try the dremel and see how she goes. Just came back from quick ride around the 'hood and the Parabellum is the cat's ass for this weather! I love their product. Had 3 different ones for different bikes over the years and never been disappointed. Mind you, they are butt ugly (i.e the RS one and one I had on my old GS) but, damn, they work great!

Jeff, we're not a manly as you boys on other side of the equator...4" grinder??...hmmm...maybe I'd better fire up the chain saw ....gotta trim the toenails tonight But I see your point, it would be over in a flash... Geez I have a hard enough time with those things cutting a pipe!

Moosehead, he wasn't actually suggesting you use a standard grinding wheel, but a "cutting disc" ON a grinder. Those cutting discs are only about 1/16" thick. I still prefer the jigsaw, as the grinder is harder to control, but it's not quite as coarse a tool as you imagine if you use one of those cutting discs.

Major Softie wrote:Moosehead, he wasn't actually suggesting you use a standard grinding wheel, but a "cutting disc" ON a grinder. Those cutting discs are only about 1/16" thick. I still prefer the jigsaw, as the grinder is harder to control, but it's not quite as coarse a tool as you imagine if you use one of those cutting discs.

Even thinner Major, 1mm. A surgical instrument. No vibration, just a little Cauterizing.
My RS screen has a rubber? mould around the exposed edge, so finish isn't critical anyways.
I've been searching the net for DIY carpel tunnel relief but no one seems to do it.